First look: Alia, a special room for Greek feasting

Posted on 14 February, 2024

The creative force behind Lonsdale Street, Nik Bulum, has helped design Canberra’s newest Greek restaurant, Alia.

And he has exacting specifications.

Nik wanted to recreate the feeling of expectation and excitement he remembered as a child during big feasts. His extended family would move into the “special room” the formal dining room, and while the setting was ornate with a chandelier and carpet, the food would be generous, simple, fresh, Greek fare.

“Think olive oil, lemon, oregano, bread, fish, vegetables and olives. Nothing complicated or staged but just really simple, beautiful, delicious Greek flavours and techniques from our grandparents,” said Nik, who has spent the past six months consulting on everything from Alia’s conception to final fit-out and menu.

Vaulted ceilings, glass chandeliers and a muted colour scheme lend Alia a “temple-like” feel.

When Alia opens to the public on 6 March, Nik believes the transformation of the former Zoo Bar site on London Circuit will instil in diners that same sense that a meal will be a special occasion.

The restaurant is a bit “temple-like” according to Nik—restrained to a colour scheme of warm whites, creams and beige, with marble tables, velvet upholstery and linen curtains dividing the space. Centred around a long bar, there is room for an enormous 12-seater sofa inviting diners to have an aperitif (an Ouzotini perhaps?) before moving to a formal table. And because it is a Greek restaurant, eager to enshrine the idea of large groups, there are multiple long tables to fit all manner of friends and family.

But while the vaulted ceilings and décor is certainly projected the “special room”, once the food arrives, you can relax a little.

Classic Greek dishes include calamari, spanakopita, and a watermelon and fetta salad.

There will be no standing on ceremony, no formal entrees, mains and desserts, and certainly no foams, emulsions or pretences.

Under chef John Santos, who is also in charge of overseeing the kitchen of Saint Malo next door, you might likely get a whole grilled flathead on baked lemony potatoes, a grilled watermelon salad with feta, honey, and mint, a Saganaki baked cheese soaked in honey, chilli, oregano and lemon, or a Spanakopita pie served in its cast iron pan and ready to share at the table.

Nik is guided by his own Greek heritage while also being a fan of Blue Zone dining which favours the clean, fresh, healthful qualities of Mediterranean food.

How can you do Greek without souvlaki or gyros?

The bread is fresh-out-of-the-oven focaccia, the “chips” are large hand-cut wedges of potato, and the deli selection will hit you with every best Greek dip, including a whipped fetta with balsamic strawberries.

And how could it be a Greek restaurant without offering a Chicken Souvlaki with pita, tzatziki, and tirokafteri, or a slow-cooked Lamb Gyros served on flat bread with garlic sauce, onion, and cucumber?

Desserts are the classics of Tiramisu or a Baklava cheesecake.

“Really, it’s all about relaxing over a huge, delicious meal in an elevated setting,” said Nik.

“The food will feel like a Greek family dinner.”

Out-of-the-oven focaccia and classic dips to start .

General Manager Jamahl Bakri said Alia filled an unmet space in the Canberra market for a restaurant that offered a luxe setting with authentic Greek flavours.

“We think people will be drawn in by the grandeur of the room but we believe they will be won over by the flavours.”

Chargrilled octopus and lots of lemon.

He was also keen for Alia to be seen as a place which welcomed families and large groups.

“Yes it is a special room but it is also there to be enjoyed and used!” he said.

Meanwhile, in quintessential Greek style, Alia promises to kick off once everyone’s eaten their fill, taking advantage of its massive marble bar and offering a range of Greek-inspired cocktails.

Once dinner service is over, Alia plans to stay open til late on Fridays and Saturdays to make use of its enormous marble bar. And by late we mean 2am.

Promising to stay open until 2am on Friday and Saturday nights, you can peruse a substantial  cocktail menu compiled by venue manager Jey Chung,  and highlighting Greek flavours such as a watermelon, vodka, Pavan liquor and lime concoction, or a tangy citrus mix of Bombay Sapphire Citron Pressé, Limoncello, lemon juice, and Italicus.

And why not can end the evening on a high, with the Baklava dessert cocktail. Yamas!

Interiors photography by Dylan Charles.