First Look: Romanée Wine Bar

Posted on 6 June, 2024

Tucked away in the back of the Branx building on Lonsdale Street, Romanée Wine Bar is Braddon’s newest spot for an unexpected tipple.

Cosy and inviting, patrons are greeted with an impressive wine wall, moody interiors, and plush forest-green booths.

Romanée is a passion project for owner Chester Mok, who has been the sommelier for some of Canberra’s best restaurants and was previously the sous chef for MONA in Hobart.

“Romanée is really a place for myself,” he reflects. “As I have worked in the industry for years, I wanted my own space where I could choose the menu, showcase the wines I desire, get people out of their comfort zone a little bit, and work with an amazing group of people.”

Its name pays homage to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, a vineyard in Burgundy, France, renowned for some of the most expensive wine in the world. Despite its namesake, Mok wanted to steer away from the frills of fine dining and lean into the lesser-known varietals that Australia and the world offer.

“Australia is such a vast place, and we are fortunate to have some of the best vineyards here – including some unique varietals. Australia’s climate lends itself to winemaking, and I want to show people who come to the bar that we have so many other varieties besides a Chardonnay or a Pinot Noir – try something different and it might surprise you.”

The by-the-glass selections ($14 – $18) set Romanée apart from other bars, presenting a wide variety of local wines made in ACT and surrounding regions. We were quite pleased sipping on the Nick Spencer Rosé from Gundagai. With notes of strawberries and cream, it would pair with anything from the menu – or be perfect to just to enjoy solo.

Chester also houses some of his personal wine collection at the bar, and if you’re lucky, a bottle or glass of some of Australia’s finest vintages might be available for patrons to try, like a smooth glass of the Ribbon Vale 1999 Merlot from Margaret River.

For those who aren’t wine lovers, try out the signature cocktails ($18-$22) or non-alcoholic options. The team also infuses their own spirits under the brand Wine Chest, and many of these appear on the menu, including a maple bacon liqueur Old Fashioned.

The curated menu is just as delectable, and Chester hunts around the farmers’ market weekly to find the best seasonal produce, adapting accordingly.

“While I know the proteins I want to use, my favourite thing about cooking seasonally is being adaptable. For my Cured Kingfish, I found some Buddha’s Hands (a type of citrus) at the market last week, and I thought they would cut through the richness of the fish perfectly, so I decided to add them in with fresh, crunchy radish,” he says.

We loved the compressed watermelon and feta bite with a glass of the Mt Moriac Sparkling and the slow-cooked braised beef with Asian greens coupled with the Shiraz from Heathcote. Share plates include a classic cheese and charcuterie board, and bouncy cornbread with rosemary and chive sour cream. Chester’s favourite? Duck in Blood Orange Jus, paired with a glass of red.

In the warmer months, open-air seating welcomes guests to dine outside, but as Canberra braces for winter, you’ll find us perched in the booth seating, sipping on something delicious (and most likely munching on bar snacks!).

Photography: Elizabeth Maidment