A Canberra Girl’s Guide to Edinburgh
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Moody weather, medieval architecture, castle views, and stunning natural scenery – Scotland’s capital city feels like something out of a fairy tale.
But there’s a lot more to Edinburgh than meets the eye. And while the grey, cold, and wet weather in Canberra might not have you dreaming of packing up for a visit to the sweeping landscapes of Scotland, for anyone looking for a holiday that’s full of character, beauty, and culture, there’s plenty to do and see.
Here’s our guide on how to experience the charming streets, quaint pubs and bars, and centuries-old buildings of Edinburgh.
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THE ITINERARY
Perched on top of an extinct volcano, it feels only right to start your trip with a visit to the most iconic building of the city – Edinburgh Castle.
Overlooking the entirety of Edinburgh (it’s really hard to miss), the castle is Scotland’s most visited attraction – that isn’t free – and it’s well worth spending a few hours here. A unique insight into Scottish history, the castle isn’t only great for living out your Game Of Throne day-dreams – it houses everything from the Crown Jewels of Scotland to the National War Museum of Scotland and it has a history more dramatic than a Desperate Housewives episode.
And even if history isn’t your jam, it’s beautiful – and if the weather works in your favour (because you WILL need to book a tour in advance), it offers unparalleled views across the city and over the River Forth to Fife.
Another iconic landmark? The Scott Monument is one of the largest memorials to a writer anywhere in the world and one of the most beautiful monuments I’ve ever seen. It’s an amazing Gothic structure, and it’s located at the Princes Street Gardens in Old Town – which is also home to the breath-taking Ross Fountain. I recommend spending a bit of time wandering through the gardens to take in the beauty because you’ll feel like you’ve been transported into the middle of a fantasy epic.
Consider yourself a bit of a bibliophile? Edinburgh not only looks like something out of a book, but it’s also the first city in the world to be designated a UNESCO City of Literature and is home to some world-leading literary attractions, like The Writer’s Museum. Located just off the Royal Mile in a 17th-century house, the free museum highlights the lives of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott (yep, of the Scott Monument), and Robert Louis Stevenson and its home to some very cool and very rare objects. And if the scenery of Edinburgh’s Old Town looks familiar, that might be because it inspired one of the most iconic book series in the world: Harry Potter. Just take one look at Old Town and you’ll see what I mean.
For Harry Potter fanatics (*ahem* I’m calling myself out here), there are a few things you need to see: Greyfriars Kirkyard whose tombs inspired some essential characters (including He Who Must Not Be Named), and Victoria Street – which is reminiscent of Diagon Alley. There are also plenty of Harry Potter inspired stores that are full of merchandise so you’ll be able to get your wizarding world fix.
But to change it up from the moody Tim Burton-esque vibe of the main city, Dean Village is a cute and quiet little spot that makes a wholesome walk on a sunny day (assuming you get one). It’s incredibly scenic, sweet, and looks like something out of a Disney movie but if you plan on grabbing some snaps, you do need to remember that it is a residential area, so make sure to remain respectful of the people living there.
Other touristy highlights? The Scottish National Gallery and National Museum of Scotland are both free and are worth visiting if you have the time. But be warned, it’s easy to spend hours exploring the artworks and artifacts…
And for fans of One Day on Netflix, yes I did walk up Arthur’s Seat. Kinda. Okay, I walked halfway up and then turned around because it was cold, windy, and I. Hate. Cardio.
But the view is worth it…if you’re into hiking.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
The Outsider
When a restaurant is packed full of locals, you know it’s good – and with views of Edinburgh Castle it’s worth booking a table. Serving modern European cuisine, The Outsider is a laid-back restaurant that uses fresh and seasonal produce to make some amazing food. Think steamed mussels, steak frites, and maple-pulled venison.
Each day the menu is updated on the website (with all of the daily specials handwritten by the wonderful staff) and the best part is not only is it delicious, but it’s also reasonably priced. I had the chargrilled burger (without the bun to make it gluten-free) and a glass of red to wash it all down while taking in views of the castle and it was one of the foodie highlights of my trip.
The World’s End
If you want to visit a pub in Edinburgh (and trust me, there’s plenty to choose from), make it this one. The World’s End is a traditional Scottish bar that’s found on the Royal Mile that’s cosy and has some great food options – like a steak and ale pie, pulled mushroom chilli (which I highly rate), and vintage cheddar mac and cheese.
As for the name? The exterior walls of the pub used to form part of a 16th-century fort that protected the Old Town. It was once thought that the world outside this wall no longer belonged to the people of Edinburgh. Who doesn’t love some fun facts with their food?
belhaven.co.uk/pubs/midlothian/worlds-end
Waterstones
Home to Edinburgh’s biggest bookshop and the best coffee in town (according to me), Waterstone’s West Endis located in the heart of the city and also offers some killer views of the castle.Trust me when I say that sipping on a hot coffee while staring at the castle on a misty morning is time well spent.
waterstones.com/bookshops/edinburgh-west-end
Dishoom
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It has locations across London, but my meal in Edinburgh was my first experience of Dishoom and. Oh. My. God.
With its own dedicated gluten-free menu, this is the best Indian food I’ve ever had, and dining there is an experience in itself. From the chicken tikka (which is made using a sweet marinade, not yoghurt) to the pistachio kulfi and the Dishoom Espresso Martini (with Finlandia vodka, chilli liqueur, and black walnut bitter), everything bite was amazing. You’ll be transported from Scotland to India the moment you step through the door, and honestly? Go hungry, cause you’ll want to try everything.
Port Of Leith Distillery
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Say hello to Scotland’s first vertical distillery – and one of the major highlights of my trip. If you want to do a whisky tasting in Scotland that’s a bit different from the traditional offerings, the Port Of Leith Distillery should be at the top of your list.
Still so new that they don’t even sell their own whisky yet (but they do have gin, port, and sherry) this 90-minute tour and tasting is unique, fun, and hands-on. You even get to fill a miniature bottle of their new make spirit to take home! Talking you through everything from the (short) history of the business to building the distillery and how they are trying to create a new strain of Scotch Whisky using yeast, it’s fascinating.
Make sure to stop in at the rooftop bar for a tipple at the end and enjoy the water views – it’s a great way to spend a day.