Toothpicks on the catwalk. Well, didn’t the @*!x hit the fan at Sydney Fashion Week as two of Australia’s most famous designers—Carla Zampatti and Alex Perry—opted for models who looked like they hadn’t eaten in months, if not years. Sunken cheeks (what would they look like without makeup?) and bodies that look absolutely wasted.

We’re glad the @*!x hit the fan. What positive message could these two designers have been sharing? The world we live in is full of women of different shapes, sizes, nationalities, heights and personalities. This is to be celebrated by the fashion industry, not swept under the carpet.

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As Fashfest makes final preparations for opening night on 30 April, organisers and designers alike are proud they’re not part of the toothpick movement. Indeed, organisers made the conscious decision this year to advertise for diversity in religion, nationality and body shape in its model call and it worked a treat.

Fashfest’s line-up of 70 models features women who are short, tall, thin, not so thin, young and no so young. Indeed, the oldest model is more than 70 years of age, which makes perfect sense since she’s modelling for Holly Squair, the designer behind the label Character. Holly targets mature women up to 85—women who love colourful, dynamic fashion and have the moola to pay for it. These are women who have character and they want their clothing to reflect that.

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There are designers Karen Lee and 4 Minutes 33, who both sell out of Assemblage Project, who design for real women with changing body shapes. So too do the designers behind labels such as Audrey Blue, Hanny-D Creations, Pure Pod, Recollection and Zilpha Tart. And Fashfest is the first time Hijab House will be featured in a mainstream fashion event in Australia, showcasing its new collection of stylish, modest clothing for young Muslim women.

And then there is designer Gina Poulakis, of label G. Ginchy, who has her own niche market. Tiny women, often short, who want to look anything like a toothpick. These are women who want to wear clothes that make them look curvy and more fulsome.

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‘I’m petite and have more of a boy figure,’ says Gina (pictured above). ‘I’m a size 6 at the top and size 8 at the hips. I love the era when women had hourglass figures and I love clothing inspired by the 40s, 50s and 60s.’

While many Fashfest designers start designing for a size 10 or 12, Gina starts at a size 6, but not so models are forced to starve themselves to squeeze into her ‘sample sizes’. It’s because her demographic wants that size, and needs it. Gina’s design aesthetic is referential, feminine and sexy, emphasising form and classic silhouette.

Gina’s designs are all the more special because of what they are made with and how they are made. These bespoke garments are created out of pre-used fabrics. Gina ‘upcycles’ in other words.

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‘I tend not to buy new and so design with smaller amounts of fabric,’ says Gina. ‘I use vintage fabric stripped from an existing object—such as a lounge, cushion or curtains—or a piece of vintage clothing I deconstruct and then reconstruct. Working with small amounts of fabric can be restrictive but that’s part of the challenge.’

Wiggle dresses and pencil skirts are garments Gina loves to create.

The blue dress worn by Haus Models’ Emma Dobbie on a shoot for Fashfest out at Eden Road Wines is a classic G. Ginchy design (seen below). ‘It was an existing wiggle dress from the 60s that a friend gave me. It was about a size 14 and had lovely lining,’ says Gina. ‘The fabric felt fabulous so I disassembled it, laundered it, kept the best pieces and made a new dress.’

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The bodice and shorts Gina is wearing (image shown) was also fun to make. ‘I made these out of fabric from a cushion and couch a friend was throwing out,’ says Gina. ‘I love the heavy linen. It’s great to wear and doesn’t crease as easily. The garments hold their shape no matter how long I wear them.’

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This is Gina’s first time showcasing at Fashfest (1 May) and she’s a ‘little nervous’. She’s madly finishing her collection which will be based on the movie Psycho. Yes, Psycho. And if that doesn’t make you want to see Gina’s work, we don’t know what will.

Fashfest is held at the Canberra Airport, in a raw, industrial space fitted out for the red-carpet event. It’s a wonderful venue with a massive atrium and stunning architectural design elements. Tickets available exclusively on: www.fashfest.com.au