First Look: Morning Glory
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We take a peek inside XO’s newest venture—Morning Glory in NewActon
We are used to spending our evenings with the inventive team at XO but from Monday we can spend our mornings there too.
Morning Glory is the much-anticipated specialty breakfast and lunch venture which has transformed the old A. Baker space at NewActon.
Developed by XO brains trust Greg Lally, Kent Nhan, AK Ramakrishna and Stephane Nguyen—and executed by Chef Elliot Gotovac—Morning Glory is all about daylight dining.
And what could be a more glorious start to the day than a menu which encapsulates the team’s experiences growing up in Australia with strong roots in South East Asia and the sometimes unexpected harmonies between eastern and western morning cuisine.
Think a char sui bacon and egg roll with fried eschalots and kewpie, or a Hainanese chicken wrap of scallion salsa, avocado and chili relish. Even the toast gets the oriental treatment coming with Chinese five spice jam, kaya or yuzu marmalade.
And if you are after something more substantial you could try the xiu mai of chicken veal meatballs, tomato sugo, tofu and egg or the lamb rump with fermented red tofu, smoked potato and morning glory.
Yes, the humble water spinach not only inspired the name of the new venture but also features on its menu.
According to Greg, the place celebrates what is traditionally considered the most important meal of the day, but he and the team also want to elevate the experience of breakfast and lunch dining.
“Some people do good breakfast (in Canberra) but they’re all fundamentally doing very much the same thing, the Western traditional breakfast. What we wanted to do is incubate the finesse in cuisine we have demonstrated at XO—the rigour and the discipline around service which is core to this daylight dining theme, and then put it in a café environment.”
Speaking of the environment, it is a very big step away from the stark industrial tones of the old A. Baker. Gone is the fire-damaged wall and instead, diners are treated to a warmer, organic and mid-century feeling in a light-filled space resulting from a long-standing partnership with Capezio Copeland—who designed XO.
Most of the produce will be local and produced in-house and may we suggest you try the specialities including the in-house baked goods including miso carrot cake, black rice brownies and Madeleines with house-made yuzu marmalade.
Drink a red bean and creme caramel shake or a Soursop smoothie for an adventurous start to the day, or stick with the Toby’s Estate coffee.
And if you are wondering why Monday was chosen for the opening, it has a particularly cultural significance.
“We consult with Kent’s aunt in Vietnam, she travels into the mountains to meet with the monks who advise an optimal opening date based on the people involved,” says Greg.
“Honestly, this sounds like a very ‘Braddon’ response, but it really does take place. The verdict – 10 September.”
Morning Glory will share the DNA of XO—unpretentious, honest food and the highest standards of service—wrapped up in its very own personality.
“We will always have a few non-negotiables—producing top-quality food, never taking ourselves too seriously and finding a spot for Madonna in every playlist (80s pop – you betcha!).“
Morning Glory will open at 6am on Monday 10 September.
the essentials
What: Morning Glory
Where: 15 Edinburgh Avenue, NewActon
When: Open 6am to 4pm, seven days per week, with the kitchen open 7am to 3pm
Web: morning-glory.com.au
Images by Tim Bean Photography.
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