Mexico City: A Canberra Girl’s Guide
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In 2019, Mexico City is taking its well-deserved place among the world’s must-visit destinations.
It’s topped lists from National Geographic and Fodor’s, and Aussies are flocking to the land of beaches, tacos and tequila. But for first-time visitors to Mexico’s capital, it can be a tad overwhelming. For a start, the traffic is insane, thanks to over 20 million locals going about their business every day. But all that energy means that there’s so much to do and see (and eat!) you could easily spend a week or even two exploring the city.
It also means that a laid-back attitude is definitely the way to go in this neck of the woods. The best experiences are usually found by following the crowd, so don’t be afraid to try street food or step into a gallery just because everybody else is.
The city’s main tourist attractions are scattered around the Centro Historico, with the upmarket neighbourhood of Polanco to the west and the hipster Condesa and bohemian La Roma to the south-west. For those willing to venture further afield, the historic suburbs of San Angel and Coyoacan in the south offer a distinctly local vibe. During the day, the Metro is a cheap and fast way to get around at about 30 cents per ride, and Uber is safe and affordable at night.
Stay
All the usual suspects are popular in Mexico City (including the Four Seasons, Marriott, Hilton, Intercontinental and Hyatt hotels), but Airbnb is a great way to experience local life. Obviously, location is very important so make sure to check out the map before you book what appears to be great deal. Search the neighbourhoods around Chapultepec Park and the Angel de la Independencia to be in the middle of it all.
Chaya B&B Boutique
Chaya is my go-to in the city centre, with views overlooking a huge park and a prime location right next to Hidalgo metro station. With simple but sophisticated decor, hammocks, cacti in almost every room and common spaces to meet other travellers, its the perfectly chilled place to relax after a long day sightseeing.
From $180 per night | Doctor Mora #9, Centro | chayabnb.com
Casa Colima
In the gorgeous Roma Norte, Casa Colima is a renovated guesthouse surrounded by the hippest restaurants and bars. The rooms are comfortable and the shared courtyard space will make you feel right at home.
From $83 per night | Colima 226, Roma Nte. | booking.com
Casa Jacinta Guest House
Further south, Casa Jacinta is located on a quiet, tree-lined street three blocks from the centre of Coyoacan (and close to Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul.) With traditional tiled bathrooms and light-filled suites, the guest house is the epitome of understated Mexican design.
From $150 per night | 2da. Cerrada de Belisario Domínguez # 22, Del Carmen, Coyoacán | casajacintamexico.com
Play
With over 150 museums and galleries, there’s something for everyone in Mexico City. Most are closed Mondays, and entrance fees range from free (especially for students) to $15 for La Casa Azul.
Sports fans should check out a game at Estadio Azteca and the lucha libre at Arena Mexico, and fashionistas can wander the streets of Polanco for luxury brands or visit La Ciudadela market for souvenirs made by local artisans. Plus, make sure you pencil in a day trip to Teotihuacán, the pre-Hispanic pyramids about an hour north-east of the city, either on an organised tour or by public transport.
El Zocalo
The zocalo, the main square in the historic centre of Mexico City, is every tourist’s starting point when exploring the city. The majority of tours leave from here, and the cathedral, National Palace and ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor stand side by side. In pre-Hispanic Mexico, the Zocalo was the heart of the city of Tenochtitlan, and the clash of cultures can still be experienced today through the architecture and buzzing vibe of the square.
Free
Bellas Artes
One of the most iconic buildings in Mexico City, Palacio Bellas Artes is the premier venue for music, dance, theatre, opera and exhibitions. Venture inside to check out Riviera murals, or grab tickets to the Ballet Folklórico on Wednesday or Sunday to comprehend the full scale of the building and its cultural significance. (PSA: the cheap gallery tickets are very, very high).
Free entry, ballet amphitheatre tickets from $80 | Av. Juárez, Centro Histórico
Bosque de Chapultepec
A huge city needs a huge park, and Chapultepec certainly delivers. It’s twice as big as New York’s Central Park, and is home to a zoo, museums, a botanic garden, a lake, plus lots more to discover. Especially on weekends, it is packed with food vendors and street performers. The incredible National Museum of Anthropology, Tlaloc Fountain designed by Diego Riviera and the faded glory of Chapultepec Castle are not to be missed.
Free
La Casa Azul
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Café y postres y Frida y tacos. Buen dia ♥️ #fridakahlo #airbnbexperience #mexico
The Frida Kahlo Museum, inside the blue house where she lived almost all of her life, can be easily spotted thanks to the queue of visitors outside. The museum is well worth the wait, as the rooms of the house are preserved as they were when Frida died. Pieces from her wardrobe are also on display, along with many of her paintings and photographs.
Tickets $17 | Londres 247, Coyoacán | museofridakahlo.org.mx
Eat
Forget nachos and burritos, Mexico City has some of the best authentic food in the world. Restaurants like Pujol and Contramar are internationally renowned for reinventing Mexican cuisine, but the street food at the other end of the budget spectrum is just as mind-blowing so be sure to grab a bite at your local taqueria.
Cafe El Jarocho
El Jarocho is an absolute coffee institution founded in Coyoacan in 1953, with nine locations throughout the city. There are no tables or chairs, just authentic cafe de olla (spiced black coffee), black coffee and milk coffee, long with churros, pastries and bread.
Avenida México No. 25-C Col. Del Carmen, Coyoacán | cafeeljarocho.com.mx
Carlota
Carlota is one of the most beautiful places to eat in the whole city, tucked beside a church in historic San Angel. The menu seeks to elevate unique Mexican ingredients and traditional techniques in a garden oasis.
Plaza del Carmen 4, San Ángel | restaurantecarlota.com
Azul Historico
Azul serves up a traditional Mexican cuisine at an accessible price point, with a rotating seasonal menu including iconic dishes like mole negro. There’s also a sister restaurant in Condesa and a more casual iteration called Azul y Oro in the south of the city.
Isabel La Católica 30, Centro | azul.rest
Balcon del Zocalo
This is the place to go for a stunning view of the historic centre of Mexico City. The menu is refreshingly contemporary and also offers a 9-course tasting menu with wine pairings.
Zocalo Central Hotel, Av. 5 de Mayo 61, Centro | balcondelzocalo.com
Pasillo de Humo
With a unique focus on traditional Oaxacan cuisine, Pasillo de Humo is a revelation of complex flavours. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the airy, down-to-earth decor is complemented by an open kitchen and passionate service.
Avenida Nuevo León 107, Hipódromo | facebook.com/pasillodehumo
Maximo Bistrot Local
Maximo Bistrot is known as one of Mexico City’s best restaurants, but it often flies under tourists’ radar thanks to a low-key atmosphere and a hyper-local menu that changes daily. Chef Eduardo García’s journey from being deported from the US (twice) to running a French-Mexican fusion restaurant empire is a triumph in itself, and the food lives up to the story.
Tonalá 133, Roma Norte | maximobistrot.com.mx
Vege Tacos
Vege Tacos is an absolute lifesaver for vegetarians and vegans in Mexico City, as they serve heaps of traditional dishes using wheat-based protein to replace the meat (at standard taqueria prices.) The lemon and chia drink is a favourite, as are the tacos al pastor.
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 65, Coyoacán | facebook.com/Vege-Taco
Drink
Considering many locals eat as late as 10 pm, it’s not surprising that most bars in Mexico City are buzzing until the early hours of the morning. If tequila shots are not your style, try sipping on mezcal, a smoky spirit also made from the agave plant. The hundreds of cantinas in Mexico City are basically the equivalent of local pubs, so drop in for a beer if that’s more your style.
Gin Gin
Gin Gin is the trendiest bar in Roma Norte, which is saying something. It’s a speakeasy within a historic mansion (of course) and draw crowds of locals and extranjeros every night of the week for electro music and an impressive selection of gins from around the world. The only downside is the prices.
Av. Oaxaca 87, Roma Norte | gingin.mx
Torre Latinoamericana
One of the best views in the city is from the 41st floor of the Torre Latinoamericana. In 1956, it was the world’s first major skyscraper successfully built on highly active seismic land and remains a significant landmark in the city. Skip the entrance fee for the observation deck and head to the bar for a margarita.
Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 2, Centro | torrelatinoamericana.com.mx
Balmori
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Hora de fiesta, hora de #Balmori. #LaRoma #Terraza #Party#Friends #Friday #Drinks#Food #Night #CDMX
With an open terrace garden and minimalist concrete benches, Balmori is the epitome of Mexico City sophistication. Cocktails, an extensive food menu and a late-night DJ make it an ideal starting point for a night out.
Zacatecas 139, Cuauhtemoc, Roma Norte | balmoriroma.com
La Bipo
Co-owned by Diego Luna, one of Mexico’s most famous actors, La Bipo maintains a fun, casual atmosphere across two bars in Coyoacan and San Angel. There’s a jukebox downstairs and DJ or live music upstairs from Wednesday to Saturday, and lots of traditional Mexican bar snacks to try.
Malintzin 155, Del Carmen, Coyoacán | labipo.com.mx
La Celestina
With tables and chairs spilling out onto the street (and an excellent food market around the corner), La Celestina is the only way to do drinks in Coyoacan. It’s charmingly unpretentious, and always just crowded enough thanks to local DJs.
Caballo Calco 14 A, Coyoacán | facebook.com/LaCelestinaCoyoacan
And once you’ve fallen in love with Mexico, you’ll find the city has all this and so much more to offer.
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