First Look: Champi Express, big breakfasts, brunches and lunches from Laos

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When chef Aiden Xindavong and his wife Bianca Fong opened their Laotian Kingston restaurant Champi, it was a gamble.
The young couple, new to Canberra and with a baby to care for, were trying to crack into a notoriously fickle industry.
But three years on, their authentic, humble, and unhurried approach to the flavours and traditions of Laos has paid off in spades. Champi has a loyal clientele, is a hangout for chefs and industry types who love the unique menu, and has a spot in the top 30 Canberra restaurants of local food Bible Chris Hansen’s Chefs Eat Canberra.
And now, it’s time for part two (which coincides with having a second young son to raise!).

Aiden’s preferred first meal of the day, Kra Pao Chicken.
Champi Express is open in Furzer Street, Woden, opposite eightysix south and where Bloom Coffee used to reside.
Unlike its big brother, the new Champi Express promises something completely different for Canberra. Hot cooked breakfasts, brunch, and lunches, showcasing traditional Laotian morning staples and a drinks menu that will get the local matcha fans in a lather (but more about that in a second).

Like Champi’s Soft Shelled Crab? Try their fiery crab brunch burger instead.
Aiden and Bianca took the plunge to open a second Champi because they felt confident Canberrans appreciate Aiden’s cooking style and because they see a distinct gap in the market for traditional Laotian hearty morning meals, brunches, and lunches.
“In Laos we don’t usually eat both breakfast and lunch, so we have a proper cooked meal earlier in the day and it is very different to eggs or avo on toast,” says Aiden.
His favourite way to start the day is the Kra Pao Chicken with Rice, which comes with a fried egg on top. Bianca, meanwhile, likes a traditional Laos Rice Porridge with chicken meatballs, pickled vegetables and a deepfried donut.

Champi Express has indoor and outdoor seating for about 60.
Located beneath a whole stack of office blocks and apartment buildings, the couple have rolled out a small but interesting menu, including a Pad Thai FaLung which uses spaghetti with Champi’s special Pad Thai sauce and tempura prawns or crispy chicken. Their famous Massaman Beef Cheeks get a spot, as does the Caramelised Sticky Pork and Coconut Chicken Salad. If you are a fan of Champi’s soft-shelled crab then the Fiery Crab Burger with spicy sauce, coleslaw and coriander puts a new slant on things.
Crab fans may also love the Shakshuka featuring crab meat with baked eggs, herbs, goat cheese, and sourdough.
Dishes will be available to have there or grab in a box to go.
And to make it accessible, the couple will also offer more standard fare of bacon and eggs, smoked truffle bagels, Panko chicken sandos, and a selection of sandwiches of the day.
You can wash it all down with Axil Coffee from Melbourne because the couple love this particular coffee and feel the herbs and spices of an Asian breakfast need a more robust brew.
But they are also bringing a unique twist on matcha to town via their Hojicha. This Japanese drink takes matcha leaves and roasts them, leading to a smokier, nuttier, darker matcha taste which we find both intriguing and delicious (yes, we will travel specifically to Woden to order this again).

Matcha lovers will love Champi Express for the Matcha Strawberry Chiffon Cake, the Yuzu Matcha and the roasted Hojicha Matcha.
Bianca, a matcha lover, also produces a yuzu matcha that has to be tasted to be believed. A butterfly pea yuzu lemonade is also completely refreshing and pairs well with the strawberry matcha chiffon cake, which is light as a feather and baked in-house every day.
Just like Champi, the couple want Champi Express to be a warm and inviting place to savour flavour and conversation. This is what brunch should be all about.
“In our culture, hospitality is so important, and we just want people to feel welcome and looked after,” says Bianca.
But office workers on the clock will be able to grab something quickly if they are under the pump – hence the “Express” part.
Aiden, meanwhile, approaches this opening with a little more confidence than when Champi first opened.
“I am proud of myself because I stayed true to what I liked with Champi and we have been embraced for it. They say you tend to do well when you enjoy something and the menu at Champi Express is smaller, but one I really love. We just couldn’t get this sort of brunch or lunch food in Canberra, so we think it’s about time we do it ourselves and we hope people like to come and try it out!”
Champi’s soft launch is today and on Thursday it is offering free coffees to the first 100 customers from 8 am.
THE ESSENTIALS
What: Champi Express
Where: 10G/35 Furzer St, Phillip
When: Open 7.30 am–2.30 pm Monday to Friday, 9 am–2.30 pm Saturday to Sunday.
Web: Champiexpress.com