Kivotos Wine Bar brings a Greek culinary odyssey to Braddon

Posted on 5 March, 2024

When chef George Giannoulis decided to open a Greek wine bar in Braddon, he knew one thing: he wanted each dish and drink to tell a story steeped in history, tradition, and passion.

Kivotos Wine Bar is just that.

Joining a growing trend of Mediterranean eateries in Canberra, Kivotos Wine Bar opened its door in February to bring a taste of true Greek cuisine to Mort Street, driven by the philosophies of balance, harmony, and moderation in simple and natural flavours.

And while the restaurant might look unassuming from the outside, the cosy, intimate interiors, the very extensive Greek wine offerings, and the flavoursome menu will quickly make you forget the heart of the CBD awaits just a few minutes walk away.

Growing up in Loutraki, Greece (located just an hour outside of Athens), George was practically born to work in hospitality – his hometown a popular tourist destination that sees the population grow from 11,000 locals to 40,000 beach lovers during the peak travel season.

Known for its beautiful crystal-clear water, there are 30 hotels packed into the seaside resort – five of which are rated five stars – which made it very easy for George to kick start his decades-long career as a chef.

Studying a diploma in Culinary Arts at the Le Monde Institute of Hotel and Tourism Studies in Athens, George has worked everywhere from London to Sydney, including at The Dorchester Hotel, the Hilton Hotel’s One Hat restaurant Glass, and the Shangri-Li Hotel’s One Hat restaurant Altitude, all before moving to Canberra to take on the role as Executive Chef at the Rex Hotel.

But Kivotos is the first restaurant he’s ever owned.

Taking pride in showcasing the best of Greek gastronomy, George’s menu is brimming with dishes that will transport you to the heart of the Mediterranean, and his childhood.

“We’ve created something unique I believe,” he says.

“I’ve chosen some popular dishes from around Greece…and I’ve tried to bring back my tasting memories.”

Inspired by his Greek heritage, the menu boasts everything from traditional homemade dips that are all served with pita bread (with gluten-free pita bread also available) – including a mouth-watering spicy feta that’s been infused with herbs and cayenne flakes – to Athenian Prawn Saganaki.

Athenian Prawn Saganaki with tomato saltsa, ouzo, feta and fresh herbs.

And like any good Greek restaurant, Char-Grilled, Spanakorizo Arancini and Greek Lamb Chops (with cous cous salad, pistachio, and saffron-infused spiced yoghurt) are also on the menu.

Chargrilled Octopus with seared baby cos, fava, preserved lemon and dill.

“They’re all traditional recipes but we’ve refined them a bit, using more modern techniques,” explains George.

“We’re not cooking in the big pots, but we’re still keeping each dish as traditional as possible.”

As for dessert? Loukoumades made to order, Baklava Cheesecake with pistachio ice cream, and dark chocolate and olive oil mousse will have you Googling flights to Greece before you know it – and with ex-pastry chef and George’s business partner Anita Ling (who has previously worked at Parliament House) in charge of the sweets, you know they’re going to be good.

The dark chocolate and olive oil mousse with sea salt, raspberry coulis and espresso crumble.

But for those who simply don’t want to decide (or are overwhelmed with the delicious options) the Greek Feast allows the team to surprise and delight you with a bespoke dining experience, as does the $69 Share The Love Menu.

“It’s all Greek-style shared food. You sit with your friends and family, and we bring all these nibbles, and you have some wine. You share the experience and we’re here to help with this,” says George.

“We want it to be relaxed – talk, laugh, eat and drink.”

And because it’s a Greek wine bar, there will also be plenty of Greek wine varietals to try (as well as some traditional Ouzo, beers, aged Tsipouro, and more). Bringing on Tassos Rovolis of Canberra’s premium wine bar Brunello as a wine consultant to ensure the wine and food flow together perfectly, from the north to the south, there’s a bottle of wine to be tried from every part of Greece.

“Because we’re a small wine bar at the moment, we have a small but very good collection. From all over Greece we’ve picked wines from some of the best producers,” says George.

“Our vision is we will grow very slowly and eventually expand our range.”

But if you could only try one drink, the Skinos Mastiha Spirit is a must. A unique liqueur that’s created from the sap of the Mastiha tree which is found only on the small island of Chios, the taste is hard to describe. Sweet, fresh, and distinctly Mediterranean, George recommends sipping on it with your dessert to allow it to transport your tastebuds.

To complete your dining experience, you can even order special Greek Zagori sparkling water (and yes, you can taste a difference) and Greek music sets the soundtrack for your culinary odyssey.

Hoping to expand the menu more in the future to focus on more seasonal dishes and to source more from local suppliers, after endless hours of work to bring his restaurant to life, George just wants Kivotos to become a vibrant celebration of Greek culture and the local community – and a place for people to celebrate simple pleasures (like biting into a Baklava Cheesecake).

And with the kitchen open until midnight each night to make that a reality, a late-night Mediterranean feast in Braddon is no longer a fantasy.

To that we say “Opa!”

Images supplied.