Kitchen Conversations: Kim Cudia | HerCanberra

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Kitchen Conversations: Kim Cudia

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Lolo and Lola Chef Kim Cudia was front and centre at November’s Winning Appliances Sunday Supper Club. We caught up with her to talk life, food and everything in between.

From humble beginnings as a Filipino bakery stall at Westside Acton Park in 2015, Lolo and Lola has become one of Canberra’s most beloved neighbourhood eateries. Owner and Chef Kim and her husband Jay celebrate the rich culture of the Philippines through their food—aiming to share, showcase and raise awareness of Filipino cuisine by focusing on honest and traditional flavours.

What is your earliest food memory? What led you to a career as a chef?

I grew up surrounded with my grandparents’ cooking—from Kare-Kare (ox tail and tripe in peanut-annatto sauce) to Morcon (Filipino-style beef roulade) to Leche Flan (Filipino crème caramel) and Nata de Coco (fermented coconut jelly).

My late Lola (grandmother) would always make her famous Nata de Coco on weekends. The smell of her coconut water fermenting was so horrible, and I clearly remember telling my fofour-year-oldelf that I wouldn’t eat those terrible-smelling, transparent jellies no matter what. But when she started simmering those little jellies in sugar syrup with fresh pandan leaves from our backyard, the refreshing aroma of this wonder herb just filled our entire house and neighbourhood immediately, so I kind of told myself that it’s probably worth a try. And boy, I’m glad I did. I tried a couple of pieces and I loved it!

The taste of my Lola’s horrible-smelling yet very delicious Nata de Coco would instantly bring me back to my childhood days. And this is pretty much what led me to where I am right now.

Tell us a little bit about your food journey – how did you get to where you are today?

Our food journey started three years ago at the second birthday party of our daughter. I made some ensaymadas (traditional Filipino sweet bun topped with butter and grated cheese), and one of our friends loved it. A week after, she ordered four dozen and, from there, the word got out and orders kept coming in.

My husband, Jay, and I did home deliveries during our days off, but when we couldn’t keep up with the increasing number of orders anymore, we opened a small stall at the Sunday Markets at Westside Acton Park. From a wobbly stall, we kind of expanded to a food truck, serving both sweet and savoury Filipino dishes. A few months later, Westside closed and we made a decision to open up a more permanent eatery in Watson, showcasing honest and traditional Filipino food.

What’s been your career highlight so far?

One day, our daughter told me that I make the best food in the world, right after having her favourite Chicken Adobo that I just cooked. And to be appreciated by the most important being in our universe and in our lives is, without a doubt, the highlight of my career.

What do you love most about being a chef?

I know for a fact that being a chef allows me to nourish a person’s body. But more importantly, it also gives me an opportunity to nourish one’s soul.

What’s your favourite thing to whip up when you’re at home with your family or friends?

Microwave popcorn. Hahaha! ?

Tell us about LOLO & LOLA–what experience are you trying to create for diners?

At LOLO and LOLA (meaning grandfather and grandmother in Filipino), we’re not just serving Filipino food fare on a plate lined with banana leaves. We’re also serving up a way to honour every Filipino’s lolo and lola who are the keepers of our delicious traditions. We also aim to showcase the many regional dishes of our motherland, and to celebrate our 7,000++ islands’ culture and heritage through our food, thus the weekly-changing menu.

How would you describe your food philosophy?

Good food is simple food.

What are your favourite places to eat in Canberra?

We would normally go to CBD Dumpling House, McDonalds or Domino’s on our days off. We would love to go to LOLO and LOLA but it’s closed during those days. Hahaha! ? We’d go to XO on special occasions.

What appliances found in the Winning kitchen would you love to get your hands on?

The in-bench fryers and steamers!

You can visit the Winning Appliances Kingston showroom at 80 Giles Street in Kingston or browse online at winningappliances.com.au.

Photography by 5 Foot Photography.

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