The largest fashion collection south of the Equator is up for sale – and you can shop it right here in Canberra
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Internationally renowned fashion collector Charlotte Smith is selling her vintage fashion collection in Canberra, giving fashion lovers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to shop a piece of history.
And those interested in history, fashion, design or conservation better start their engines.
Collating what is known as the biggest fashion collection in the southern hemisphere, Charlotte is well known in fashion circle for her work of recording the culture of fashion and social history through clothing.
My introduction to her – like many obsessed with fashion – was through her first book Dreaming of Dior, a dedication to her beloved godmother Doris Darnell who bequeathed Charlotte her personal archive, which she’d been collecting since 1937.
Along with the endless boxes of clothing, which spanned more than 3000 pieces dating from 1790 to 1995, Doris also left Charlotte a book of stories of the women who owned them.
It was those stories Charlotte shared in another two books (Dreaming of Chanel and One Enchanted Evening) as well as showcasing the collection in charity fashion events, acclaimed exhibitions and lectures worldwide.
Charlotte showing pieces from the collection.
Now, after adding to the collection herself over the last 21 years, she’s decided to let it all go.
“I don’t feel bad at all selling it and it’s a little bit…not really sad, it’s poignant,” says Charlotte.
“I figure the collection has had an incredible run with my godmother owning it for over 70 years and then I’ve had it for 21. These pieces have been seen in exhibitions around Australia, New Zealand, America, England and with the books, the stories will never be forgotten.”
Partnering with Dirty Janes, 4000 pieces from Charlotte’s impressive collection will be for sale at the vintage and artisan emporium in both their Bowral and Canberra stores.
Already available in Bowral, the Canberra collection will be launched on Saturday 12 April, with items priced from just $50 to over $2,000 for rare items, including original Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Prada and Alexander McQueen pieces.
A hat and pair of sunglasses from the collection.
Explaining that those shopping in the Southern Highlands will find more contemporary pieces from Doris’ bequest and Charlotte’s personal collection, those in the national capital will find more delicate and fragile garments from the Victorian era.
But it’s not just the clothing Charlotte is sharing – she’s also passing on the custodianship of the stories.
“I realised it was time for the dresses to move onto other owners and rather than sell it at auction – which was going to be quite impersonal and to me that would be quite disrespectful to the importance of the collection – I had the lightbulb idea to partner with someone like Dirty Janes,” she says.
“I’m selling these as works of art that have a story that belongs to somebody else, and I’ve just been the custodian of those stories.”
With pieces ranging from the 1700s to now, there will be something for every kind of fashion lover.
Also wanting to inspire and empower others interested in fashion and its history, Charlotte says the Canberra collection will be a study, research and resource opportunity for anyone with an interest in fashion.
“We’re going to pitch to wedding dress designers, milliners, students, costume designers, anybody who might not have the opportunity to have something like this, something that might have some damage so it can never be used for an exhibition but can be turned inside out and studied or cut up,” she explains.
“That’s going to be my real resource hub…every table will have a different Victorian or Edwardian clothing item.”
“I’ll also have clothing more suitable for the students and younger people in the area. I’ll have quirkier shoes, and quirky hats – it will be very distinct, the difference between the two because the collection is so huge I have enough pieces I can split it up like that.”
But the journey of Charlotte’s collection won’t end there. One thousand items have also been donated to the National Museum of Australia as part of a milestone acquisition, available for public viewing.
Feeling ridiculous at the thought of leaving the clothing in the dark as she takes a small step back from her work, for Charlotte these collaborations feel like the right next step.
A model wearing one of the many dresses Charlotte is selling.
Pulling dresses from the rack I first read about when I was a teenager, and skimming my hands across pieces from the 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, I had to ask Charlotte what she thought Doris – the woman who started it all – would think of her choice to part with the collection she was named custodian of.
Charlotte’s answer?
“I think she would applaud the 21 years of determination and patience that it took to get the collection to not being known at all in Australia – that went from the late 1700s to 1960 with no Australian pieces in it – to a collection that goes all the way up to present day,” she says.
“It represents something like 52 countries from around the world including a huge number of designers that are Australian…I think she’d be very excited that the collection is still garnering interest, the books live on and I’m moving in a new direction with my life having spent these years looking after her legacy.”
Stocked in Dirty Janes for six months (or until everything is sold) this is a unique chance to acquire pieces of fashion history.
For more information, keep an eye on the Dirty Janes Canberra website.
Photography: Drew Fairley.
