Under to open new purpose-built bakery at Dairy Road (and you won’t have long to wait)!
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In a quest for the perfect cardamom bun, Under was born.
During a stint working in Copenhagen, owner Lachlan Cutting became obsessed with the cardamom bun. This obsession took him across the city in search of the best bun. Juno the Bakery was victorious – their bun had a pillowy texture and was cooked continuously throughout the day so was always served warm.
Under owner Lachlan Cutting. Photography: Will Neill, courtesy Molonglo.
On returning to Australia, Cutting applied the law of 10,000 hours. He started experimenting with producing his own buns. When they were good enough, he started selling them at the local farmers market. In 2020, he opened his first bakery in Mawson, a small 70 sqm shopfront. Word went round, and queues stretched down the street. Under is now known for some of Canberra’s best bread and buns.
Five years on, Under is taking another leap, opening a second venue at Dairy Road in a purpose-built space nearly four times the size. The space is open and industrial and has been designed for perfect flow. It will allow the team to be more experimental and creative – at Mawson the constrained space means the kitchen can barely keep up, let alone break out. Customers will be able to watch the bakers as they order and there will be spots to perch for dine in. The bakery spills out to the Dairy Road gardens, and customers will be able to enjoy a coffee with their baked goods in the morning sun.
The offering will be similar to Mawson – expect daily sourdough loaves, sweet buns and pastries – but will expand as the bakery gets firing. More savoury items will be available: a morning plate with a slice of bread, jam and an egg, lunchtime plates and batch brew coffee from Barrio. Expect weekly pastry and lunch specials.
Photography: Will Neill, courtesy Molonglo.
Despite the expansion, Under will remain true to its original vision – a small scale bakery that uses the very best local ingredients and traditional techniques. There will be no tomatoes used in winter. Flour comes from a small family farm in Rutherglen, Victoria. Butter is churned by Pepe Saya. Milk from the multi-generational farm Little Big Dairy. The loaves will be made from flour, salt and water – nothing else – seasoned and baked a bit longer for flavour development.
Cutting is passionate about baking’s alchemy and still driven by perfection. “Our bread is great every day,” he says. “But in the five years we have been operating, it has been perfect only 9 or 10 times. When all the elements come together it’s magic, creating incredible crumb, texture and flavour. This is what keeps us jumping out of bed at 5am.”
Photography: Will Neill, courtesy Molonglo.
Molonglo’s Co–Director Nikos Kalogeropoulos says, “we have had our eyes on Under for a long time and this has been a while in the making. We are thrilled to welcome Under to the Dairy Road who will bring new rhythms and rituals to the heart of the neighbourhood in Building 3.”
To celebrate, a ticketed dinner — Breaking Bread — will be held on Sunday 30 November in collaboration with Under, Canteen, and Molonglo. Further details to come.
Under opens mid-November and will be open Wednesday to Sunday.
Photography: Will Neill, courtesy Molonglo
