Bar Rochford: very fine times
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The Melbourne building on London Circuit has always been culturally diverse, from Mezzalira’s classic Italian to the Irish cheer of PJ O’Reilly’s, Bistro Nguyen’s fresh Vietnamese and Highball Express’ Cuban flair.
Now, with the arrival of Bar Rochford, there’s finally a little slice of Melbourne in the Melbourne building.

Photography by Martin Ollman
The fit out might seem sparse at first glance, but look deeper and a new level of attention to detail reveals itself. The marble green of the booth seat leather matches the bar stools, water jugs and indoor plants and even the tiles on the kitchen pass.
There’s a kind of retro, op-shop chic to the decor that makes you want to go and touch everything, but somehow knits together to give an incredibly relaxed vibe, as if you were at your mate’s place. Indeed, founder Nick Smith says it’s somewhat a reflection of his house with his girlfriend, co-founder Luci. The records and art are theirs, the lamps are his grandmother’s.

Photography by Martin Ollman
“The main influences for [the decor] are traveling and seeing a lot of Europe and a lot of the ‘old world’ style of life. That and living in Melbourne for a long time where there’s a lot of niches – small places that do great wine and food,” says Nick.
“One of my local bars [in Melbourne] was Gerald’s Bar, which was a 50 seater with a one armed bartender. It wasn’t about going out and getting blind, it was about a nice time with friends or your mum or whoever it was.”

The Bar Rochford team: Ian Poy, bar manager Charlotte and Nick Smith. Photography by Martin Ollman.
Bar Rochford’s laid back approach to ‘going out’ might be the perfect fit for Canberra’s large population of undergraduates and young public and private sector workers who are done with neon nightclubs but disinterested in lounge style bars.
With Smith’s Alternative Bookstore (on the other side of the Melbourne building) packed most nights since it’s re-opening, you get the feeling that there’s a Canberra crowd that appreciate a relaxed approach to entertaining, preferring a quality atmosphere over pomp and circumstance.

Photography by Martin Ollman
When we ask what crowd Nick’s expecting, or hoping for, he ruefully replies “25+, probably. People who want to have good food and wine, but I do want to welcome everyone. I used to love going to these sorts of places when I was an undergrad.”
Nick’s good friend Ian Poy will be heading up the kitchen.
“I wanted a European, Spanish Australian mix. The food will be locally sourced and seasonal. There’ll be a classic bar menu but we’ll also be doing table service, in a bistro style so people will look after you,” says Nick.
In terms of events Bar Rochford patrons might expect to attend, Nick says he and Ian would love to see guest chefs coming in every few months and holding wine nights.
“I’d love to see a wine night where we showcase a Spanish wine and pair it with kangaroo,” Nick explains. “Perhaps music events on public holidays – whatever comes up!”

Ian (right) in the Bar Rochford kitchen. Photography by Martin Ollman
When asked to describe the vibe of Bar Rochford in three words, Nick asks around within the bar and then offers up “very fine times” with a laugh.
“Laid back class” and “grungy elegance” are also suggested by other staff.
“I’m 30 now and my friends and I don’t want to get pissed, we just want to get some good food and wine…maybe four wines and then go home.”

Photography by Martin Ollman
The fact that Smith’s Alternative and the very popular Highball Express are a 30 second walk from Bar Rochford makes me hope for a Melbourne building that is alive every night of the week – the perfect antidote to Civic nightlife’s recent slide into quiet nights and rapidly closing venues.
Many young Canberrans ache for a ‘Little Melbourne’ precinct – perhaps Bar Rochford signifies that this could be achieved after all.
the essentials
What: Bar Rochford
When: Opening Tuesday 22 March
Where: First floor, 65 London Circuit (Melbourne Building), Canberra City
Web: www.barrochford.com
All images by Martin Ollman
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