Wildflour blooming in Fyshwick

Posted on 22 May, 2019

Espresso Room’s Michael Rose has taken over Fyshwick bakery Remy’s and given it a whole new identity. Meet Wildflour, opening on Tuesday 28 May.

When a coffee guru and a French master baker join forces, there is not much more to say other than “shut up and take my money”.

Espresso Room founder Michael Rose has taken the plunge and taken over Remy’s, the Fyshwick bakery that grew from the ashes of Autolyse, and given it a whole new identity.

The good news for those who have grown addicted to Remy’s bread is that classically-trained head baker Romain Remy is staying on board to do what he does best.

All images: Anisa Sabet

The kitchen, meanwhile, will be expanded to offer full all-day dining via chef Matt Henry. Matt is a long standing-chef in Canberra, heading up some local past and present favourites such as Verve and Ricardo’s. The head barista and manager Mark Bursell from Green House Coffee and Co in the Canberra Centre will be manning the coffee machine and bar and serving Ona coffee.

Michael has a strong track record in hospitality, having set up Espresso Rooms across the city, as well as many other well-known establishments such as Green House with long-term partner and collaborator World Barista champion Sasa Sestic.

Wildflour is unrecognisable from its previous incarnation. Michael wanted to create a food destination in Fyshwick in line with the suburb’s burgeoning popularity.

“I think it’s an up-and-coming part of the city and there is already a broad mix of people—from trades to real estate to businesspeople coming through. Also, we have great parking which makes a difference for a lot of people.”

Wildflour is all dark tiles, wood and blue velvet chairs with some beautiful plant life creating a focal point on the ceiling. It seems a big space and yet exudes warmth and community through long bars, communal tables and a large and safety-gated children’s playground outside.

Michael, a proud dad of three boys, wants families to feel comfortable here and the kids’ menu testifies to the fact that small people matter.

But for the big people visiting Wildflour, there is much to be excited about.

It will operate as a commercial bakery overseen by a team who will bake throughout the night to satisfy commercial clients, while Remy will be in bright and early each morning to pump out fresh bread throughout the day for customers who eat-in or takeaway.

“We want people to come in and grab a loaf of bread, we want them to get it while it is just moments out of the oven,” says Michael.

Meanwhile, there are a number of new reasons to grab a seat and stay awhile. Wildflour will operate Monday to Saturday between 7 am and 3 pm and has a seasonal menu offering sophisticated delights such as sweet potato and fave bean fritters with quinoa tabbouleh, pickled jalapeno, tahini and flatbread.

Perhaps you’d like to try the crispy squid salad featuring pickled fennel, beet leaves, chevre, preserved lemon, salsa roja and smoked chickpea cream. There are steak and chicken burgers, a chicken curry and then an entire range of breakfast fare including a warm coconut rice pudding with poached quince, roasted nut, pomegranate yoghurt, halva, orange blossom date syrup.

“We have put a big emphasis on our food, and everything we do will be done on site,” says Michael.

From curing the smoked salmon to making Wildflour brand jams (raspberry and watermelon, strawberry, rhubarb and vanilla or apricot, quince and cinnamon), everything that can be handmade, is.

Like any good bakery, there will also be an expanded front cabinet to showcase the day’s pastries, pâtisserie treats and pies such as slow roasted beef brisket, chicken and brie, lamb shoulder and vegetable. Chorizo sausage rolls and quiches will also be available.

Mostly, Michael has handpicked a team of staff he promises will make customers feel welcome—with the whole operation coming under the watchful eye of former Pialligo Estate frontman Aaron Dosa.

“My entire career I have focussed on finding the right staff. Everything follows once you have them in place.”

“I feel good about what we have done here and I think people are going to enjoy the experience.”

Wildflour throws open its doors from Tuesday 28 May.

the essentials

What: Wildflour
Where: 8 Townsville St Fyshwick
When: Monday to Saturday 7 am-3 pm
Web: wildflour.com.au

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Photography: Anisa Sabet