First Look: Edo Tori, where Japanese snacks never tasted so good

Posted on 27 January, 2022

Runze Liu knows it is not an ideal time to open a new restaurant and bar in the city, what with half of Canberra in self-imposed lockdown and the other half in isolation.

But he is hoping his fresh take on Japanese food accompanied by an expansive cocktail menu will entice diners to experience his latest venture, Edo Tori.

The high ceilings of the historic Melbourne Building and two large dining areas also have certain appeal right now in terms of maintaining social distance.

Located in the spot where Momoda and Soju Girl once sat, Edo Tori has been appointed in dark colours with lots of banquet seating and feature walls of Japanese art.

While the food also looks artful, Runze is keen to point out that Edo Tori is a casual place, prices are surprisingly low and conversations with friends over chicken yakitori and an Asahi Superdry (one of the eight beers on tap) are to be encouraged.

But that’s not to say he has not gone to enormous effort to produce a menu which traverses Japan’s favourite snacks—charred edamame with house-made togarashi, softshell crab tempura and pan-fried pork gyoza for starters.

Those keen to make a night of it may want a selection from the raw bar, such as salmon with yuzu wasabi, ponzu and nori or the kingfish with yuzukosho, coconut, ponzu and coriander.

The really hungry may want to chase that up with chicken yakitori featuring any and every part of the chicken (vegetarian options available) or perhaps a steaming bowl of udon or don, featuring chicken or seafood.

Given just two dishes on the extensive menu are priced over $20, you can afford to order as much as you like.

And don’t forget the cocktails which include delicious combinations such as the Choumame Iced Tea featuring Haku vodka, Roku gin, tequila, rum, triple sec and buttefly pea flower, or the Sakura, featuring Nigori sake, Japanese gin and hibiscus.

As is the case with many bars these days, there is also a solid focus on mocktails—our pick the Summer’s Cup of peach, dragonfruit, cucumber, mint, orange and lemon.

Lured to Canberra around eight years ago in order to pursue studies in IT, Runze fell head over heals in love with the buzz of the hospitality industry. He opened his first venue B One, an unassuming Asian fusion restaurant, at the other end of the Melbourne Building a few years ago.

Then came Yaki Boi on Lonsdale Street in Braddon.

“I came to Canberra to study but found I just love eating and cooking,” he said.

While Runze understands the city may be a little sensitive to going out for a meal right at the moment, he hopes that longer term, Edo Tori will cement itself as a fun and funky place to grab a bite with city workers and students alike.

While he is opening Wednesday to Sunday to start, Runze has his heart set on serving tasty Japanese snacks seven days a week.

All images by Zachary Griffith of Botanist Creative