First Look: Tintino

Posted on 23 July, 2025

After months of curious glances from Canberrans wandering past an intriguing shopfront in Old Kingston, Tintino is finally opening its doors tomorrow.

And it looks like this cosy wine bar–bottle shop hybrid is set to become a local favourite worth every moment of anticipation.

Elegantly redefining what we thought we knew about the neighbourhood wine experience, Tintino brings together a curated list of global wines, a full-flavour menu, and a sense of casual sophistication. Its retail-meets-dining model invites guests to browse curated wine shelves, sit down for a snack, or settle in for the night.

The team behind this venture includes owner Ben Florance, venue manager Adam Brown, and chef Brendan Hill, whose distinguished experience includes stints at Carlotta and Wilma. These guys know what they’re doing – something that’s obvious in every element, from the fitout to the wine selection and intriguing menu.

“The vision was always to create a place where you can pop in for a bottle, stay for a snack, or discover something new,” says Florance.

“Whatever we do, it’s always in service of the wine, and for the people who love it.”

Designed by Department of Design and brought to life by a talented team of local builders, trades and makers, the space is warm and tactile – all timber, curves and black with a hint of sage. Quirky, retro posters and sleek timber speakers add personality. A fully open kitchen is designed for connection, while a chef’s counter allows guests to chat to the crew as dishes come together.

There’s attention to the smallest detail, and no inch of the intimate space is wasted – a sleek serving bay is tucked in between banquette seating and the retail area, while a bottle-width nook at the back of the seating is the perfect spot for bottles to rest when not being poured.

That exacting eye extends to the menu, where each dish is thoughtfully crafted with wine in mind, yet the food doesn’t play second fiddle. The wine list blends natural and classic styles, offering by-the-glass pours and plenty of opportunities to explore unexpected regions, all served with zero pretence.

There’s a snack section brimming with tempting morsels – hibachi-grilled lamb belly skewers, truffle toasties, and a brilliantly creative interpretation of childhood potato gems that’ll have you reconsidering everything you thought you knew about elevated comfort food. An unconventional Beef Tartare hums with the addition of Gochujang and is one of the best things we’ve eaten this year.

A compact selection of mains – each resolved enough to be enjoyed by one or shared – bursts with flavour. The Pressed Chicken Leg with corn, saffron and truffle madeira is cooked to tender perfection, while the Snowy Rainbow Trout with fennel and buttermilk is a flavourful delight. Meanwhile, the inventive sides are definitely not just bit players.

“We’ve designed the menu around the wine, but made sure the food can hold its own,” explains Hill. “It’s about curiosity, comfort, and having a bit of fun along the way.”

Even dessert receives the same thoughtful attention. A toasted sourdough ice cream and chocolate terrine cleverly incorporate elements from the savoury menu to minimise waste – sustainability has never been quite so delicious. The serving size is also well considered – big enough to satisfy, small enough to round out a meal without feeling excessive.

Tintino opens to the public tomorrow (Wednesday 23 July), with the bottle shop open seven days, and the restaurant trading Wednesday to Sunday, including “Sunday Mass” sessions with a more casual menu, DJs, and an open invitation to settle in for the entire afternoon.

Looking ahead, Tintino will expand into a wine club, curated wine packs, and bespoke private cellar services designed for collectors, corporates, and everyday enthusiasts.

As for the name? It’s inspired by the ‘tin tin’ of two wine glasses clinking together – a sound that’s destined to become Tintino’s signature soundtrack.

Images by Nathan Harradine-Hale, Collections from Him