First Look: Yakitori 38

Posted on 31 January, 2024

Hidden in the Sydney Building – where culture and cuisine have begun to collide – a taste of Japan awaits those craving simple but flavoursome food.

Joining a slew of new eateries that have recently opened their doors in the historic landmark, Yakitori 38 is bringing Japanese Yakitori to Canberra; something that’s never been a huge staple in our incredibly diverse dining scene.

All about simple but well-done food and drinks, it’s intimate, cosy, and a little bit retro.

And while the interiors might be minimalistic, with a high, elegant bar (where an abundance of saké is lit up under a spotlight like a singer on a stage) and Japanese animations playing on the wall, you’re instantly transported from the bustling street of East Row.

“We’re focused on authenticity and craftsmanship,” says Venue Manager Sarah Blunden.

“We’re sourcing unique flavours that are exclusive to Japan while creating a high-quality food and beverage menu that people have never really experienced before. We also offer a wide range of Yakitori and dishes which we’ve found not many people in Canberra do.”

Sarah Blunden.

Describing the extensive menu as “classic and tasty”, those who haven’t tried Yakitori before will be treated to a range of bite-sized pieces of meat and vegetables cooked on a charcoal grill and served on a bamboo skewer. And while the portions might be small, the flavour packed in by co-owner and Executive Chef Guno Chung is mighty.

With a background in French cuisine and contemporary European food, Guno is bringing his expertise from Cordon Bleu London and working under Chef Marco Pierre White, as well as his skill as time spent as the Senior Sous Chef at Akiba, and the Buvette Banquet Head Chef.

“When I became a Chef, my profession was French cuisine, but I wanted to cook what I loved to eat. I love French food, but this is something I really like – and when you cook French food all the time you get sick of it,” explains Guno with a smile.

“I was wondering why there’s no Yakitori place in Canberra – and why not? I can do it. That’s why we opened this [Yakitori 38].”

Mostly focusing on the traditional Yakitori (which is poultry that’s grilled and seasoned in different ways) and its umami flavours, everything on the menu is designed to be shared amongst friends.

 

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From a signature chicken Negima to lotus chips topped with parmesan, matcha ice cream, Chicken Katsu and more, there’s something to suit everyone, including the more adventurous eaters – because one of the main characteristics of Yakitori is that a whole chicken is used without any waste, which means chicken hearts even have a place on the menu.

“Everything can be made gluten-free apart from the deep-fried dishes and most of our items are dairy-free as well which is great. We do have a vegetable section and that’s all vegan,” says Sarah.

“The theme is ‘izakaya’ which is enjoying a nice drink after work and relaxing after the day, but with high-quality food and drinks that people can enjoy.”

And if Sarah – who’s the architect of the drinks menu as well as the Venue Manager – seems like a familiar face at Yakitori 38, it’s because she’s cut her teeth behind the bar of Capitol Bar & Grill, Molly and even Cabo.

Doing lots of research on Japanese food and flavours to translate them into drinks, she says that it’s highly recommended to try the extensive collection of saké for a more authentic Japanese drinking and dining experience. But for those who prefer cocktails and mocktails, she’s also currently working on a list that incorporates the drool-worthy flavours of yuzu, cherry blossom, matcha and more.

But the magic of Yakitori 38 is that it’s more than a great destination to stop off for a leisurely meal and drink– with its limited capacity (50 people seated and 65 standing), it’s also perfect for a casual catch-up or a quick cocktail before hitting the town – making it a true chameleon in Canberra’s dining scene.

Best described as a relaxed restaurant and bar to book into when you want your tastebuds to be transported out of town without the fuss of fine dining, Sarah says that the ultimate goal of Yakitori 38 is to offer exceptional dining experiences while introducing people to new flavours.

Both she and Guno hope that it soon becomes an icon of the Japanese dining scene in Canberra.

“I can’t wait to see everyone enjoying what we offer.”

Photography: Jess Lee.