First Look: Contentious Character opens urban winery at the Kingston Foreshore

Posted on 3 June, 2026

Kingston Foreshore has a lot going for it. But does it have an urban winery and cellar door?

As a matter of fact, it does.

When Contentious Character opens its doors tomorrow, Kingston will be a spot for local and international wine tasting and purchasing, and the accompanying restaurant will elevate the strong record the brand has built for pairing the perfect dishes with the perfect drop. It will also give Kingston a casual wine bar vibe and tapas-style snack venue, which has, up to now, been missing.

The concept of the urban winery has evolved since Contentious Character began in the hills of Wamboin in 2016, before owners Ben Jarrett and Jeremy Wilson opened their concept store at the Dairy Road precinct in 2024.

But the chance to restructure, refocus, and reopen right in the middle of a bustling thoroughfare on the Kingston Foreshore proved too good an opportunity to pass up.

The space formerly home to Cinnabar has proven to be the perfect spot, anchoring the opportunity for weekend wine tasting at the top of the strip of lakefront eateries and also providing a water vantage from which to sit at a table and order food, whether that is some shared tapas plates or an entrée, main and dessert.

The menu will focus on European/Mediterranean flavours with a modern fusion twist, under the watchful eye of chef John Spackman, whose previous experience includes running the kitchen at Forster’s Wharf Street Distillery and the Bronte Belo at Diamond Beach.

The menu has a strong tapas feel, with all plates intended to be shared – from warm marinated olives, housemade focaccia, and roast cauliflower bits with harissa, aioli and pickled onions to start, to smoked trout rillette with cornichons and sourdough, mushroom arancini with parmesan and truffled aioli for something a little more substantial.

Mains include seafood pie with shoestring fries and soubise, roast duck breast with beetroot puree and heirloom carrots, crispy pork belly with fetta, olive mash and pomegranate jus, and slow-cooked beef cheeks with creamy mash, greens and red wine jus.

Desserts offer a fitting finale, from a velvety lemon posset with fresh strawberries, mint, berry coulis and crushed biscuit to Contentious Character’s signature cheeseboard, best enjoyed with a final glass of wine overlooking the lake.

Meanwhile, the spotlight will be firmly on the wine list, celebrating cool-climate varietals from seven distinguished wine regions throughout Australia and New Zealand.

“At its heart, Contentious Character celebrates wine, which we produce both here in Australia and in New Zealand,” says Ben.

“So the dining experience will be very much tailored to complement that group of award-winning wines, but those who want to expand beyond our wines can also enjoy a tailored international wine list.”

He also understands that a good night out involves a full bar, so we will continue our partnership with other local producers such as Underground Spirits to produce some playful cocktail experiences.”

Ben has spent months preparing for the opening, introducing the concept to the Canberra community and shaping the waterfront venue into a warm and welcoming destination on the Kingston Foreshore.

The plan is for Contentious Character to be a go-to spot of an afternoon, with wine tastings taking place al fresco, complemented by sparkling lake views and plenty of outdoor seating if you want to order tapas. Meanwhile, for those who believe a meal should always involve a bottle or two of something remarkable, then this will be the place to settle in.

“The essence of the urban winery concept is about having multiple regions in one location, from one winemaker (Jeremy Wilson), and this is very much the direction we want to take in the evolution of wine experiences at Contentious Character.

“Canberra has always supported us as a local independent wine brand, and we hope to pay back the love in a relaxed spot that offers the chance to sip a new varietal or go the full restaurant dinner out experience.”