Louis: a classic Canberra food experience

Posted on 24 May, 2024

In a city of foodies spoilt for choice and obsessed with the new and flashy, the quiet classics are often overlooked – but they’re often the best. We revisit Louis.

It’s been a year since Louis arrived on the Canberra dining scene, and a hot minute since my husband and I last visited, but a recent Friday evening enjoying a tipple and a snack on the terrace reminded us we were due for another taste.

It’s a chilly, wet autumn night when we visit and as we take our seats we comment that the moody deep-toned interiors feel like the perfect complement to the weather. The layout of Louis’ main dining room has evolved over the past year, and the space feels intimate and warm – we could be in a Parisian bistro as we consider the menu of European classics. Crafted by DOMA Culinary Director Ben Willis, it’s a reflection of his desire to ‘get back to simplicity’ after 14 years at the helm of hatted fine-diner Aubergine.

Louis’ luxe interiors. Photography: Romello Pereira

Lauded local chef Keaton McDonnell is in the kitchen tonight, so we know we’re in for a treat. Most recently at the helm of European brasserie Ondine in Deakin, Keaton has an impressive resume, including stints at Pulp Kitchen, Aubergine and The Ottoman.

The menu is arranged in a traditional structure – appetisers, entrées, mains, desserts, sides and cheeses. There are options to share, and we commit early to the Apple Tarte Tatin with Crème Anglaise and Vanilla Ice Cream given its 35-minute prep time.

Chicken Liver Parfait on brioche toast with fig jam. Photography: Pew Pew Studio.

Moreish starters range from the restaurant’s signature Oysters Louis – oysters grilled with a topping of cream, lemon and nutmeg – to a wonderfully rich Chicken Liver Parfait on brioche toast with fig jam. We opt for natural oysters with a mignonette dressing – the tartness of the red wine vinegar and eschalots atop plump, briny oysters priming our tastebuds for what’s ahead.

Entrées are wonderfully autumnal, ranging from gnocchi with gorgonzola, pine nut and raisins to pork belly with celeriac, remoulade, apple and crackling. At our waiter’s recommendation we choose the roasted Jerusalem Artichoke with comte and walnut pesto, and also can’t go past the cured yellowfin tuna with whipped cod roe, cucumber and dill. Both are inventive and unlike anything we’ve tasted before.

Roasted Jerusalem Artichoke with comte and walnut pesto. Photography: Pew Pew Studio.

Onto mains, a visual delight. Although intrigued by the potato & leek pithivier with broccolini and parsley puree, we again take our waiter’s advice and order the Blue Eye Trevalla with pumpkin ravioli and ginger beurre noisette – we don’t regret it. The fish is beautifully tender, and the ravioli is a showstopper – pumpkin filling oozing out as we cut into it. The Lamb Rump with Merguez Sausage and Sugarloaf Cabbage is a surprising pairing – big on flavour and texture, and perfectly cooked. A simple salad of Butterhead lettuce cuts through the richness.

cured yellowfin tuna with whipped cod roe, cucumber and dill. Photography: Pew Pew Studio.

The dessert options are all tempting – a decadent coffee délice, dark chocolate sorbet and honeycomb, and caramel & date tart with Earl Grey ice cream have us second-guessing our earlier choice – but when our Apple Tarte Tatin for two arrives, we give each other self-congratulatory smiles. It is a thing of beauty – a generous dish of crispy pastry, tender apples and dark sticky caramel. We immediately smother it in vanilla-scented Crème Anglaise and devour every morsel.

Tonight has been a masterclass in classic techniques. There are no foams or gels, no trickery or showboating, on the plates that arrive at our table. Just perfectly cooked elements, silky sauces, and an impressive depth of flavour in everything we eat. Next time, it won’t take us so long to return.

Feature image of Louis’ Potato & Leek Pithivier, Broccolini, Parsley Puree: Lean Timms