Hao’s Canberra – the story of Raku and the city
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Hao Chen is one of the city’s most lauded chefs, attracting celebrities to sup on his exemplary Japanese cuisine and planning a massive new luxury Raku to open in the Crystalbrook Aurora in 2027 to really put Canberra’s dining scene on the map.
But not content just with that, he has also devoted countless hours over the last year to gather his recipes, stories, and a coterie of friends and local personalities to contribute to a very special book – Hao’s Canberra.
Written in collaboration with local food personality Chris Hansen, whose own book Chefs Eat Canberra published in 2024 is found on the best coffee tables across the city, Hao and Chris have brought to life the microcosm of Raku.
Hao with developer Tony Pan and co-author Chris Hansen
This includes its extraordinary star pulling power (everyone from Nicole Kidman to Nigella Lawson to Post Malone has eaten there), its intricate recipes, and stories from some of its most frequent visitors – from doctors (Omar Gailani), to developers (Tony Pan), politicians (Andrew Barr) to Nobel Prize winners (Professor Brian Schmidt), truffle farmers (Doug and Alice O’Mara) to coffee growers (Sasa Sestic).
The book took many months to compile, with Hao giving a series of questions to his chosen identities. Their answers provide interesting insights into their careers as well as the city.
Hao and Nick Kyrios
For instance, Nick Kyrios’s favourite quote is “It’s never as good as it seems. It’s never as bad as it seems.” And he can never go past the Dragon Maki roll.
Hao said he wanted the book to record the stories of some of the most interesting people he has met since he moved to Canberra in 2017.
“Over the past eight years I have had the privilege of hearing stories of countless Canberrans – some born and raised here, others part of a new wave of immigrants. Their experiences have shaped this city in remarkable ways.”
Hao said that while Canberra was well known for its national and cultural institutions, “beyond these landmarks lies a city full of extraordinary people whose contributions have made Canberra what it is today. This book brings together some of those people…and tales of perseverance, passion and success.”
Hao with Nobel Prize winner, astrophysicist, and former ANU Vice-Chancellor Professor Brian Schmidt
It is also a book bringing insights into the culinary art of Hao’s particular take on food and his magic in bringing Japanese precision and flavour to Raku’s tables night after night.
Sharing his recipes for the first time, Hao provides background on his journey from Shanghai, China, to Sydney and then Canberra.
Cooking was not his first career. He studied IT and his mother dearly hoped he’d pursue a career in banking. But Hao’s father died when he was young, and while his mother worked long hours to support the family, a young Hao found himself learning new skills in the kitchen. He settled on Japanese food over Chinese food simply because he found traditional woks too heavy to toss. He also found it intriguing.
Interspersed with interviews with 30 local identities are some of Hao’s most famous dishes. There are instructions on how to construct his Maki Rolls, Dragon Rolls, Yakiniki Beef Skewers, and his Chocolate Whiskey Fondant – among many others.
Hao and ONA coffee founder Sasa Sestic
The book’s more than 250 pages are filled with stunning photographs by Ashley St George.
While the recipes are indeed intricate, Hao has tried to make them easy to follow, also including an index of his favourite ingredients and how to use them.
Carefully curated and edited by Chris, Hao’s Canberra celebrates Raku’s special place as “Canberra’s town hall”.
“Raku isn’t just one of Canberra’s most loved restaurants – it’s a place that brings people together,” says Chris.
“Hao has this amazing way of connecting with everyone, and he gives back to the community in so many ways. To me, Raku feels almost like an unofficial town hall – a space where everyone’s welcome. It’s become one of the true dining institutions of my time living here.”
The infamous dinner with Post Malone which ended at 6am….
Hao’s Canberra is independently published and is now available for $66 with $2 from every book sold going to the Australian Brain Cancer Foundation. Go to haoscanberra.com to order.
Photography by Ashley St George
