From food stall to Canberra icon: Celebrating 10 years of Mr Papa
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If there’s a foodie marker of becoming a true Canberran, it’s when you’re able to explain what a Chanchito is.
One of Peruvian street food vendor Mr Papa’s first inventions (and their most famous), Founder Carlos Ramirez-Roldan explains his iconic pork belly burger was inspired by his home country’s local burger shops, nicknamed sangucherias.
He might never have intended for it to become an icon of Canberra’s food scene, but fast forward 10 years and the Chanchito, Mr Papa and Carlos himself are all household names.
Today marks 10 years since Carlos set up his first small stall at the National Multicultural Festival in 2013, having moved to Canberra after years spent working in hospitality and fine dining around the world. Little did he know what was ahead.
“The name, funnily enough, came from one dish we sold—it wasn’t a burger but a stuffed potato similar to a king size croquette that in Spanish we call papa rellena, so that’s how it started. We didn’t just want to call it ‘Peruvian food stall’ so a friend in advertising suggested we call it Mr Papa,” explains Carlos. “It was a success and people started asking about the brand.”
Mr Papa’s first Multicultural Festival stall on 2013.
Carlos quickly recognised Mr Papa’s ability to bring a fresh approach to catering when he was approached by the National Gallery of Australia to bring a Peruvian flavour to its Gold and the Incas exhibition.
Seizing the moment, Carlos quit his job—with a baby on the way, we might add—throwing himself headfirst into Mr Papa with the help of his beloved wife Cynthia, who he calls his “biggest supporter”.
Cynthia and Carlos.
Joined in 2016 by his brother Moncho, a food engineer and musician, Mr Papa upgraded to a food truck at Lonsdale Street’s iconic The Hamlet, becoming a regular at festivals and events.
“At first it was just a fun proposal—let’s bring memories from our Peruvian childhood to Canberra…we didn’t plan to have Mr Papa as a brand,” says Carlos with a laugh. “Without my brother, our family and the Canberra community’s support, it wouldn’t have been possible.”
Carlos and Moncho. Credit: 5foot Photography.
A decade later, Carlos and Moncho now oversee a thriving Fyshwick café, four food trucks and a team of dedicated staff who have helped them cater hundreds of weddings and corporate events.
“It’s been amazing being part of people’s milestones along the way, from weddings to events and special occasions,” says Carlos of Mr Papa’s loyal following, which sees them cater up to one wedding every weekend across the year.
Described as “the casa of Mr Papa”, Mr Papa’s Fyshwick HQ opened in late 2020. Occupying a boldly lettered building on Barrier Street, the HQ serves as a base of operations for catering services, but also as a takeaway café where goodies can be eaten on picnic tables outside—but that won’t always be the case.
Mr Papa’s Fyshwick HQ.
Carlos has big plans to expand HQ’s offerings later this year—think an expansive bar where diners can pull up a stool to indulge in an expanded menu of Peruvian goodness.
“Just like sangucherias in Peru, we want to make you feel home. Guests can also enjoy goodies made daily to take home like sauces, frozen empanadas and the full line of products from Mr Papa Market.”
The famed Chanchito burger. Photo: Rohan Thomson.
But just as Mr Papa celebrates the brothers’ Peruvian roots, Carlos is excited to go back to Mr Papa’s roots this weekend at his annual Multicultural Festival stall, which this year will include a Pisco Bar (serving a delicious Peruvian cocktail called Chilcanos), crunchy fried chicken burgers and Chanchitos galore.
This weekend also marks the first public unveiling of the new Mr Papa brand. Bright, bold and featuring a cute character who embodies the playfulness of the brand, it was designed by Lima creative agency Surgente Estudio and is inspired by the vibrant streets of Peru’s capital.
As for a message for Mr Papa’s loyal customers, Carlos has these words:
“It’s been a beautiful journey. Thanks for being with us on the ride through all the lows and highs—especially on the lows—because without the community’s support we wouldn’t be where we are.”
“The stories you share with us, when you make us part of your lives, is what makes us feel like what we do is not just selling food but being part of a community.”
Here’s to another decade of the Chanchito (and beyond).
HerCanberra Founder Amanda Whitley with Carlos, Moncho and the Mr Papa team. Photo: 5foot Photography.
Feature image: Supplied.
