Kitchen Conversations: Gus Armstrong
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eightysix’s Gus Armstrong and Chef Michael Rees was front and centre at July’s Winning Appliances Sunday Supper Club. We caught up with Gus to talk life, food and everything in between.
From a start as a casual worker at Pizza Hut to the owner of two of Canberra’s most celebrated restaurants, Gus Armstrong has been part of the city’s transformation into a foodie paradise.
“I always enjoyed work more than school. I got a job the moment I could at fourteen-and-nine-months,” says Gus. “Pizza Hut taught me to move fast and about franchise-related stuff like costings and wastage.”
At 20, Gus worked at Tosolini’s in Manuka, then moving onto Belluci’s where he “learnt to run the door and host a room, build rapport with regulars and manage every aspect of a successful restaurant.’
From there it was to Café Sydney and a world-class view of Circular Quay, which gave Gus a taste of hospitality on a larger scale in a big city.
In 2007, Gus seized an opportunity to work for himself and headed back to Canberra to open his first restaurant, Ellacure in Bruce. It was a raging success.
“In 2010 my business partner and head chef decided to leave. The kitchen needed direction and the existing staff were not at a level I wanted. At this point, with no formal training, I taught myself to cook and started to control the menu.”
In 2011 it was time for a new challenge. Gus looked for a site for eighteen months before signing a lease in then-burgeoning Braddon and jumped into the kitchen for the first time. In April 2013 eightysix opened to a very energetic response—the rest, as they say, is history.
We coaxed Gus out of the kitchen briefly to talk life, food and everything in between.
What is your earliest food memory?
Hot chips at the beach, average lunchbox sandwiches, sausages and lamb chops on the barbeque, ice cream, roast and gravy, rotting fruit in my school bag, lol.
What led you to a career as a chef?
I am not a chef, to run a good restaurant you need to be competent in all aspects, so developing a cooking style and spending time in the kitchen is important. Also, I like chefs, they are not normal. Or maybe they are normal and everyone else is not?
Tell us a little bit about your food journey–how did you get to where you are today?
I started at Pizza Hut making pizzas, worked casually as a waiter at some shitty places and really enjoyed it. I went on to management and then to part ownership. Now I creatively direct my own business.
What’s been your career highlight so far?
Creating an awesome restaurant in the middle of nowhere in Belconnen, opening eightysix to lines down the street, Terry Durack giving us a hat the second night in at Pulp, front cover of Gourmet Traveller with the popcorn sundae, staying open!
All the great staff, customers and suppliers we have developed relationships with along the way.
What do you love most?
Eating the food, I’m a pig. Outsmarting the variables—seasons, ingredients, seasoning. Being an artist in a food way.
What’s your favourite thing to whip up when you’re at home with your family or friends?
Amatriciana, flatbread pizza, schnitzel, fillet steak w salsa verde, pho, agadashi tofu, roast pork, fish with provencale, bolognaise and then with it lasagne, vanilla ice cream w leatherwood honey and sea salt. Wine, lot and lots of wine.
Tell us about eightysix–what experience are you trying to create for diners?
Relaxed service, colourful share food, colourful language, smashable wine, great desserts, awesome music.
How would you describe your food philosophy?
Colourful, punchy, fun, loose, it must be delicious and respect and represent where it came from. I often think of the name for a dish first so it fits in with our theme and then work out how to create it. Also, you have to have fun making it.
What are your favourite places to eat in Canberra?
Morks, Italian & Sons, Brodburger, Timmy’s Kitchen, Kyo for breakfast and coffee, Pilot, Ona Manuka for coffee.
What appliance/s found in the Winning kitchen/showroom would you love to get your hands on?
I thought you guys were decking out my whole kitchen, right???
You can visit the Winning Appliances Kingston showroom at 80 Giles Street in Kingston or browse online at winningappliances.com.au.
Photography: 5foot Photography
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