Canberra, get ready to sparkle
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Like an impatient girlfriend waiting for her guy to take to bended knee and propose, Canberra has surely been holding its breath in anticipation of Cartier: The Exhibition.
Indeed, there is a point of pride for all of us that the National Gallery of Australia (NGA) will host the most extraordinary collection of priceless jewels in all the world when its newest blockbuster is unveiled on Wednesday.
You may be mistaken for thinking it is simply a display of sparkly gems under glass (although let’s not kid ourselves, there may well be enough sparkle to see the NGA from outer space given the size and number of priceless diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, gold and platinum that will be kept under 24-hour guard for the duration of the exhibition).
Cartier Paris. Crocodile necklace 1975 special order, gold, yellow diamonds, emeralds, rubies 30 and 27.3 cm (length each) Collection Cartier © Cartier Photo Nils Herrmann Made as a special order for María Félix.
Pieces flown into Canberra have been worn by royalty, aristocrats, global socialites and movie stars. Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth has dispatched some of her favourite jewels – including the tiara she lent to Catherine Middleton for her wedding to Prince William – also worn by the late Princess Diana. Princess Grace of Monaco’s 10.48-carat engagement ring is there, as is Elizabeth Taylor’s platinum, gold and Burmese ruby necklace.
Cartier Paris. Necklace, bracelet and pair of earrings 1951, platinum, gold, brilliant-, baguette-, modified baguette- and fancy-cut diamonds, cushion-shaped and round faceted Burmese rubies 37 cm (l. necklace); 6.2 cm (l. bracelet at c.); 6 cm (l. earrings). Collection Cartier © Cartier. Photo: Marian Gérard.
There is a selection of pieces from turn-of-the-century opera singer and Australia’s first global superstar, Dame Nellie Melba, the Duchess of Windsor’s trend-setting Flamingo brooch, brooches from Indian maharajahs and priceless pieces from personal collections around the world that must remain, agonisingly, anonymous.
Did we mention there will also be the biggest pink diamond in the world?
For those of us who find ourselves indescribably drawn to beautiful things, Cartier: the Exhibition promises next levels of visual joy. Perhaps even the odd heart palpitation.
Cartier London. Necklace, 1932, special order, platinum, diamonds, emerald 8.8 cm (height at centre). Collection Cartier © Cartier Photo Vincent Wulveryck.
But lest we sound materialistic, Gallery Director Gerard Vaughan says the collection is more than simply about the “rocks”.
“Of course, the Cartier collection is lavish and glamorous and I have no doubt many people will come to see the gemstones themselves…But for us it is also about the design element and Cartier’s unique history,” he says.
“You can look at a lot of large diamonds. But looking at a large Cartier diamond in an item of spectacular jewellery is a different matter entirely. No one else had the style or the elegance of Cartier—it stands apart.”
The curated collection will be an immersive experience. You will ogle Dame Nellie Melba’s gobsmacking favourite pieces while listening to a digitally remastered recording of her farewell to Covent Garden in 1926.
Cartier Paris. Brooch 1907 platinum, diamonds 3.8 x 3.8 cm Collection Cartier © Cartier Photo Vincent Wulveryck.
You will see home videos of Elizabeth Taylor splashing about in her backyard pool wearing more carats than swimsuit while you are able to lean over to determine for yourself exactly how red her rubies were. And what would a Cartier exhibition be without a backing soundtrack of Marilyn Monroe singing Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend while cavorting around in her infamous William Travilla-designed “shocking pink” strapless silk gown?
As well as the array of jewellery, there will be displays of Cartier’s coveted timepieces and precious objects, a selection of original preparatory drawings from its heritage collection, as well as portraits, historic photographs, film, multimedia, advertising material, and jewellery-making equipment to provide insight into the iconic luxury brand.
Cartier London, Halo tiara 1934, platinum, round old- and baguette-cut diamonds
4 cm (height). Collection Cartier © Cartier. Photo: Nils Herrmann.
Gerard said few in the gallery had anticipated the exhibition would grow to such an extent.
“Well, a lot of what I do is writing letters to very influential people asking them to borrow very valuable things. I simply hadn’t planned on such a high success rate. We thought we may get 200 items so I wrote 300 loan requests. And to our great surprise and our great pleasure -everybody said ‘yes’.”
It’s enough to make your eyes water.
the essentials
What: Cartier: The Exhibition
When: 30 March until 22 July 2018
Where: National Gallery of Australia
Tickets: Available from Ticketek
Web: nga.gov.au/cartier
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