Malamay goes West | HerCanberra

Everything you need to know about canberra. ONE DESTINATION.

Malamay goes West

Posted on

When we think of Chinese food, it’s probably fair to say that many of us think of the fare we grew up with: Mongolian Beef, Sweet and Sour Pork, Chow Mein.

But for over 20 years, the Chairman Group has redefined Cantonese Cuisine with Canberra institution, Chairman & Yip; and more recently has spread its roots, with Campbell’s Lanterne Rooms and its innovative take on traditional South-East Asian food; Michelin-starred, The Chairman in Hong King; and the newest addition to the group, Malamay.

We first experienced Malamay’s Sichuan cuisine not long after it opened in 2012, and have returned on numerous occasions to enjoy its colourful, flavour-packed cuisine. But this week, we were taken on a journey to The Great West of China, as part of Malamay and The Chairman Hong Kong’s exclusive series of Good Food Month dinners.

IMG_5982

Part degustation and part history and geography lesson, the dinner was a fascinating and delicious exploration of Western Chinese cuisine.

As Amy Tran, part-owner and manager of Malamay explains, “This unique culture is shaped by its great diversity in landscape – from harsh deserts to highlands, from the largest basin to the great southwestern jungle. This diversity of landscape is mirrored in a rich racial variety, with a population of 20 000 million comprising the largest number of ethnic tribes in China.”

As we learnt, the Great West is bordered by more than 10 countries, including: Laos, Burma, Vietnam, Nepal, Afghanistan and Kazakhstan; and the cuisine derives from this rich fabric of both internal ethnic, cultural and geographic diversity and influences from across the vast borders.

The 10 course menu aimed to deliver a ‘memorable dining experience of some of the best Western Chinese cuisines’, and began with a small palate cleansing dish of Bean paste pickled pear/ Rice vinegar young ginger/ Plum scented tomatoes/ Sweet wine apple (below), a surprising combination of textures and flavours, and an exciting kickstart for the tastebuds.

Amy explained that the mixed pickles are done in Yunnan (Southwestern) style, the young ginger picked just once a year, around the second or third week of September when they are most crunchy and firm. The apples are cooked sous vide with the best sweet wine, the crunchy pear pickled with bean paste; and the cherry tomatoes with plum powder and prickly oil.

IMG_5951

Next out were two dishes served together: King prawns/ Chilli jam cone/ Mint and Pu Erh smoked chicken/ Witlof / Sakura spicy shrimp paste (below).

The King Prawns were served in a playful Chilli jam cone, with the sweet chilli jam made inhouse from a mixture of dark palm sugar, plenty of dry mixed herbs and tamarind in the same way they are prepared in Midwestern China. It was a tasty and spicy dish which took its inspiration from the Yunnan Province, with great punches of lemongrass, lime and mint.

The chicken was a stunner, the bitterness of the witlof combining with the smoky flavours of the chicken, which had been smoked with Pu Erh Tea, apparently the best tea in China. Topped with a chilli paste made from dried shrimps and wind dried Chinese ham, it left a pleasant warmth in the mouth that lingered long after the dishes had been cleared.

IMG_5952

Next up were the Pork prawn chives dumplings / Szechuan chilli oil / Crunchy cloud ears (below). Hand made, the dumplings were plump and juicy and contrasted wonderfully with the crunchiness of the cloud ears (an edible jelly fungus). The Szechuan chilli oil gave the dish a hint of heat without being overpowering.

IMG_5958

Then it was time for the showstopper, the Steamed mud crab / Aged Chinese wine / Flat noodles (below)

Amy informed us that, “In Guangxi, the southern tip of China facing the sea, seafood dominates hearts and menus – the people love simple cooking that brings out the natural flavours,” and this was certainly reflected in the signature dish of mud crab steamed with 15 years aged wine and a touch of chicken fat.

This was not a course that could be eaten in an elegant way. It was all about using your hands, tools and mouths to get as much of the gorgeous, sweet crabmeat from the shell as possible. And the accompaniments were simple but delicious – the aroma of the chicken broth promised so much flavour, and delivered in spades; while the handmade flat noodles were silky and slippery.

IMG_5975

A cleansing Dark sugar lemongrass herbal ginger tea (below) was offered after the crab dish. Amy told us that, in Chinese tradition, there are ‘cold’ and ‘warm’ foods, and that the tea was served to warm the body as a counterbalance to the crab, which is considered a kind of ‘cold’ food ingredient. Balance aside, it was delicious – sweet and soothing and imbued with the flavours of ginger and lemongrass.

IMG_5986

After a brief respite, it was back into it with a light dish of Prawns in two ways / Shrimp oil and shrimp roes / 7 flavours spice (below). An incredibly juicy fresh prawn, stir-fried with shrimp oil and shrimp roes, melted in the mouth; and was the perfect contrast to the crunchy prawn head and taro crisps. A single basil leaf added a depth of flavour that elevated the simple flavours.

IMG_5990

We were into the final straight, with just a handful of dishes to go. The Local Vegetables medley / Yunnan Style stir fried / Basil and Xian spicy roast duck / Mantau (below) were served together, Amy advising that, “The Szechuan roast duck represents the spicy, lumpy, fierce way of Szechuan with a strong chili and pepper flavour which is very different from Cantonese roast.”

This was an interesting one. When I first lifted up my portion of crispy, spicy duck and saw what looked like bread, I was somewhat nonplussed. But upon tasting the dish, it worked surprisingly well, the Mantau (Chinese Pork Bun)’s sweetness and crisp exterior complementing the tender duck meat. There was some discussion at our table as to whether the bread was a welcome element, and whether a splash of sauce would have helped tie the dish together, but the fact that it was different and challenging was something of a delight in itself.

IMG_5994

The final savoury course was Oxtail / Port, cardamom, lemongrass/ Rice sheet (below) and it won our table’s dish of the day, yet its flavours were most unexpected on a Chinese menu. The oxtail stew was slow cooked for three days and featured big tomato flavours, but with distinct Chinese spices.

“The oxtail stew gives a taste of the Middle East, as the breadth of culinary influences travel this far,” said Amy. “Yet, if you taste carefully, you will notice the presence of a subtle trace of Chinese flavour derived from the star anise undertone.”

Served with the meat were two fingers of ‘rice sheet’, Malamay’s take on the french fry. Made from vermicelli noodles, the sheet was pressed and then fried to provide an intriguing East-West accompaniment.

IMG_6001

And then, just when we thought it was impossible to fit another thing in, along came dessert…and our stomachs magically found some capacity. And I’m so glad they did.

The Earl Grey custard with coconut pearls and peanut candy was a quintessentially Asian eccentric end to the meal. An amazing Earl Grey infused custard topped with coconut sago and a gorgeous crunchy topping which hid popping candy that tickled your back tastebuds. A fun and memorable end to an amazing meal.

IMG_6008

I haven’t mentioned the matched wines, but they were a highlight in themselves. Predominantly from Ocean Eight Wines, but also featuring Chiyo Shuzo Sake from Nara in Japan, a Milton Chenin Blanc from New Zealand, and a French sauternes, they were paired expertly with the meals, and our table really enjoyed discussing how the wine changed the flavours of the food – and vice versa.

The Great West of China was a wonderful dining experience – a true culinary journey which took you from very traditional Chinese flavours through to unexpected elements of the Middle East. Malamay’s knowledgeable staff were our tour guides on this exciting trip, and we left the restaurant not only with full stomachs, but knowing a little more about this diverse and fascinating country.

While the dinners are already booked out, Amy tells me that the menu (a little different from Malamay’s usual style) reflects the direction they’d like to take their food. It’s a menu that truly reflects the enjoyment that the team had in putting it together, and it’s a dining experience you shouldn’t miss.

the essentials

What: The Great West of China Dinners
Where: Malamay, 1 Burbury Cl, Barton
When: Thursday 10, Friday 11 and Saturday 12 October
How much: $125 with crab, $105 without crab, plus $65 for wine and sake matching
Phone: 6162 1220
Web: malamay.chairmangroup.com.au

The author and her friends dined courtesy of Malamay.

Related Posts

Leave a Reply

© 2024 HerCanberra. All rights reserved. Legal.
Site by Coordinate.