Top 10 Canberra Wines of 2014

Posted on 8 January, 2015

Being asked to pick your favourite wine is like being asked to pick your favourite person, some days you want to spend time with something mellow and laid back while other times you’re after something wild and intense. With over 30 cellar doors and more than 140 vineyards, choosing my top 10 local wines for 2014 was no easy feat, in fact, I had to go back and taste several again to make sure they were worthy of my list – the sacrifices I make for my readers…you’re welcome!

A few of my top 10 are no brainers, Helm Riesling (well, der!) but there are few gems in there that are a little less well known. One of the best things about wine is that it is constantly evolving so even old favourites can surprise you sometimes.

Gallagher Wines Non-Vintage Sparkling Duet

Winemaker Greg Gallagher is Mr Champagne of the Canberra region and in fact spent several years in Champagne perfecting his art. His Non-Vintage Duet of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay works in perfect harmony as it is zesty but has that ‘bready’ characteristic that is so well known in French champagne. It’s refreshing with a creamy lingering finish. A very reliable sparkling wine. This is my go-to sparkling for parties as the complexities keeps the wine snobs happy while the lime and grapefruit notes satisfy those more used to drinking Omni and the like.

Helm Classic Dry Riesling 2014

Ken Helm and Riesling are the peas and carrots of the wine world, they just belong together. Ken Helm is one of the pioneers of the Canberra wine region and has produced fabulous wine for around 40 years. Last year (2014) was a tumultuous year for Canberra grapes with late frosts, heatwaves and April rain all wreaking havoc for our winemakers. Ken managed to salvage enough high-quality fruit to make his excellent Classic Dry and this wine is truly an example of his determination and wine making abilities.

Capital Wines Kyeema Vineyard 2013 Shiraz Viognier 

Clonakilla may have started a trend but several other wineries are now producing some fantastic Shiraz Viognier and Capital Wines is one of the best. At $50 a bottle it’s still not cheap but compared to Clonakilla’s $90 version, I think this is pretty good bang for buck. The spicy Shiraz is balanced perfectly with a dash of Viognier which gives the wine an elegant, mouth-watering fullness. Apparently the winemaker needed some convincing that putting Viogner in Shiraz was not making cocktails but his restraint with the Viognier was a good move as this is a beautiful wine.

Pankhurst 2013 Tempranillo

Tempranillo is a Spanish grape variety most commonly found in Rioja wines, however, it is starting to become somewhat of a regular at Canberra cellar doors. Pankhurst’s Tempranillo is juicy and vibrant with low acid and low tannins which make it pretty easy drinking. But don’t let its easiness fool you, this wine deserves lingering over; let yourself savour the fruity blueberry notes which start mellow and finish tight in the mouth, leaving you wanting more…

Eden Road 2012 Tumbarumba Chardonnay

I love taking groups to visit Eden Road as they source their grapes from a number of different cool climate regions and their wines are a great example of how the terroir (the environment in which the grapes are grown) influence the outcome of the wine. Tumbarumba is THE place to source grapes for cool climate style wines and Eden Road have certainly done the fruit justice. Forget everything you know about the over oaked chardys of the 80s, this wine is silky smooth with fresh grapefruit notes combined with a sweet buttery-ness that comes from the time it spent on lees and oak. Also worth noting is that almost no additives went into this wine so in theory it shouldn’t give you a hangover…time will tell…!

Shaw 2013 Merlot, Winemakers Selection

When I first started drinking wine (I’m not revealing when that was…!) I used to gravitate towards Merlot as it is soft and fruity, and one of the ‘easier’ red varieties to drink. However, as I got older and wiser (debatable), I lost the taste for fruity wines and craved spicy varieties like Shiraz and Malbec. Merlot got a bad reputation after the 2004 movie Sideways but I predict it’s making a comeback. This Merlot from Shaw is truly delicious. As it’s a cool climate wine, it’s fruity but not jammy as some of the warmer climates produce. This wine has a nice amount a spice offset with hints of ripe plums and would be a great Christmas wine for those planning ahead! Make 2015 the year you give Merlot another go.

McKellar Ridge 2011 Trio

This wine is a typical Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (15%) and Cabernet Franc (15%). Having travelled to Bordeaux several times, I think this wine more than holds its own against the French stuff and in fact surpasses quite a few. It’s a strong fruit driven wine with dark cherry and blackberry notes with a hint of toasty oak. Don’t be put off by the oak, it gives the wine a rich, full flavour which lingers long after the first sip.

Mallaluka 2013 Cabernet Shiraz Sangiovese

Sangiovese is the grape variety typically used in Chianti wine from Tuscany but it also grows remarkably well in Canberra and this region is starting to get a very good reputation for the quality of Sangiovese being produced. Open by appointment only, Mallaluka Wines is a family run winery tucked away up on the Yass Plains but it is well worth a visit. This blend of Cabernet, Shiraz and Sangiovese was created by accident when an errant farmhand accidently tossed all the pickings into the one trailer but rather than toss it all out, winemaker John Leyshon decided to see what he could do. What a fortunate accident as this wine is amazing and John has continued to make this blend in subsequent years.

Mount Majura 2013 TSG

Mount Majura are doing some wonderful innovative things with wine and their blend of Tempranillo, Shiraz and Graciano (TSG) really demonstrates the skill of winemaker Frank van der Loo.  The juicy Tempranillo is perfectly balanced with the spiciness of the Shiraz and then the perfumed Graciano completes the seduction. Good luck not finishing the bottle in one sitting although I do recommend you share with a friend! The year that was 2013 was one of the best years for Canberra grapes and this wine is an excellent example of what this area is capable of when the weather cooperates.

Nick O’Leary 2013 Bolaro Shiraz

Halfway through 2014 winemaker Nick O’Leary released his Bolaro Shiraz and the wine world got excited. Winning a host of awards, including NSW Wine of the Year, this wine is superb. It is a silky smooth, beautifully perfumed wine that you almost want to bathe in, it smells that good! But you don’t want to waste a drop of this bottle—it’s got everything you want in a wine, spice, sweetness, length, power, subtleness. If this wine was a person, you’d marry them tomorrow! Get your year off to a good start by nabbing a few bottles of this wine. I dare you to keep one until the end of the year…

Happy new year and may 2015 be filled with fabulous wine!

Feature image of wine glasses clinking courtesy of Shutterstock.