An Insider’s Guide to Singapore: Part Two

Posted on 20 June, 2019

Much like Canberra, the real Singapore hides behind its thin veil of orderliness, belying its true nature.

If you take a peek behind the curtain, scrape away the exterior varnish of high-end shopping and shiny hotels that this city is famous for, you will find a wealth of cultural wonders spanning the gamut of interests and desires of every traveller.

In the second of a two-part series (see the first one here), we present an insider’s guide to Singapore—in this article, you’ll discover where to eat and drink with the locals.

The Melting Pot of Asia

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An independent republic since 1965 Singapore’s history is rarely questioned by the average traveller but a nation’s past is key to understanding it’s present. Since its days as a trading post in the 14th century, Singapore has been governed by The Malacca Sultanate,  The Johor Sultanate, Japan, Britain and Malaysia.

Once independence was obtained Singapore made a push for modernisation establishing a manufacturing industry and investing in education and public housing which saw Singapore become one of the world’s most prosperous nations.

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A wealthy nation attracts people in the form of immigrants seeking employment and a better standard of living. This leads us to today’s cultural melting pot where just over 76% of the population are cultural Chinese, 15% Malay and 7.4% are ethnic Indians.

With ethnic groups dwelling and setting up businesses in enclaves around Singapore you now have pockets within the city where you can go experience these cultures.

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In Little India you will find colourful Hindu and Buddhist temples as well as a beautiful yellow and green mosque built in 1859 to service the South Indian merchants. You will also find a thriving Indian community cooking food from their regions. Be sure to try the Roti Prata.

Chinatown is an exciting blend of old and new, a place where you can sit down for a cheap plate of Hainanese Chicken Rice or prop yourself up at a trendy bar with a cocktail.

Kampong Glam is Singapore’s oldest urban quarter. This Malay enclave is where cool and culture combine, built up around the once thriving trade port and now home to the Malay-muslims of Singapore.

Be sure to take a walk down Haji Lane where you will find market stalls, boutique shops and colourful street art.

Eat With The Locals

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Street food in Singapore started in the mid-1800s when vendors known as hawkers plied the streets with their food offerings.

Over the course of many years from the late 1960s until the late ‘80s hawkers were relocated into hawker centres, food court style eating halls where the individual hawkers can serve their customers.

Singapore now has more than 100 of these centres where locals spend their lunch breaks and families can gather for dinner. Expect to pay $2-$4 for a plate of food and make sure you observe the customs.

First, pick your table, then choose which stall you want to eat at, order your food and give the attendant your table number and when the food is ready they will bring it to your table.

If the food needs to be collected from the stall yourself this will be indicated by a self-service sign at the stall.

Some must-try dishes are Char Kuey Teow, a smoky noodle stir fry cooked in a flaming hot wok; Oyster Omelette, a local favourite; or Hainanese Chicken Rice, a uniquely Singaporean dish with Chinese origins now found the world over.

And for dessert grab a mound of colourful shaved ice drizzled in condensed milk and a sweet syrup called Ice Kacang.

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Some well-regarded Hawker Centres to seek out are Chomp Chomp (offering higher-end fare like grilled stingray), Maxwell Road (one of the oldest hawker centres and located in Chinatown), and Lau Pa Sat (offering 50 stalls within a heritage listed building).

Breakfast has its own unique traditions in Singapore. Find a kopi tiam—a traditional coffee shop—and grab a Kopi (coffee) with Kaya Toast (toast with coconut jam) plus a side of boiled eggs.

This one will feel a little familiar to you if you grew up dunking your soldiers in your eggs as the Singaporeans do the same with their Kaya Toast.

Drink With The Expats

I must admit I like to do touristy things. I am not afraid to be one of the crowd in the daggiest way and partaking in a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar at Raffles Hotel, which is about as touristy as it gets.

The historical setting doesn’t quite justify the price of the cocktails but it’s one of those iconic experiences that belongs in your Instafeed. It’s currently closed for refurbishment but will open again on 1 August.

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Once that is checked off your bucket list it’s worth checking out the new wave of bars and restaurants in Singapore, the speakeasy. There’s nothing like a hidden bar—if you can find it—and Singapore does speakeasies on a world-class level.

The Auld Alliance at the Rendezvous Hotel is regarded as one of the best whiskey bars in the world and its deep Chesterfield couches will keep you there for hours soaking in the atmosphere (as well as the whiskey!).

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Hidden on the second floor of a shophouse on Haji Lane you will find Bar Stories, a cocktail bar with no menu.

Only using the best of fresh ingredients the bartenders will get to know you, know what you like and create a cocktail based on your conversation.

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In the great tradition of the modern speakeasy, The Other Room in the Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel sets the scene with moody lighting, tasty tapas and a secret door to which entry is gained by ringing the bell.

If you have trouble making decisions the 50-page food and drinks menu might be a little too much for you, but the friendly staff are more than happy to make a recommendation.