Gili Air: Bali’s relaxed neighbour that’s perfect for a winter getaway
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The first thing you’ll notice when you set foot on the Indonesian island of Gili Air is that there are no cars.
Disembarking the boat that has brought you three hours from Bali, there’s no line of taxis waiting for you, no shuttle buses, not even a tuk-tuk. There is a queue of drivers though, and if you engage one, they’ll load you and your bags into the back of their horse-drawn cart.
If you choose the horse over the only alternate option of walking, you’ll pass backpackers roaming between local bars, boutiques and restaurants. You’ll pass by dozens of tiny hotels, each with only six to eight rooms gathered around their own pool.
You’ll pass locals going about their day buying groceries, building new tiny hotels and taking groups of travellers out to see the many turtles that make the warm island waters their year-round home. Gili Air is a bustling little place, but marooned out there in the vast ocean with no background hum of motorised engines, you’re a world away from Bali.
Where to stay
When backpackers first came to the trio of islands known as the Gili Islands in the early 1980s, they were looking for an escape from the nearby and rapidly changing island of Bali. In recent years, despite a global explosion of tourism, Gili Air is still a destination that has all the amenities you crave on holidays without ever feeling crowded.
Stay beachfront at Vyaana Resort where poolside cocktails are the order of the day. You won’t be disappointed with the comfy king-sized beds, thatched roofs and open-air bathrooms.
Getting around
At a mere 5 kilometres in circumference, there is easily enough to entertain even the most restless traveller for at least a week. The primary mode of day-to-day transport for a traveller is bicycle. Via the sandy bike trails, head inland towards the mosque and you can experience local village life.
The local population is predominantly Muslim and always has a friendly smile or wave as you tootle down the path. Head towards the ocean in any direction and you’ll be met with beachfront bars and restaurants lining white sand beaches that border an active coral reef.
Local tour companies are dotted all round the beaches, particularly on the East Coast of the Island. A private boat to turtle snorkelling hot spots will set you back around eighty dollars total and can take up to six people. These guys are so confident, they even guarantee the turtle sightings.
Where to eat + drink
Spend a few minutes trawling Google before you set off in search of a meal and you’ll realise that you won’t have to walk far to find a plethora of worthy food experiences on Gili Air. Five-star reviews are surprisingly common for a place where most restaurants are lucky to have walls, let alone a roof. The range of restaurants might be a little more rustic than the fine dining scene that has taken over Bali but the Indonesian dishes and fresh-caught seafood that dominate the menus are enough to impress even the most seasoned foodie, as do their live music and happy hours.
For heart-stopping sunsets accompanied by the mintiest Mojitos check out Gili Lumbung. And for dinner stop in on the crew at Optimiz Prime where the flavour they pack into their local Indonesian dishes is testament to their five-star rating.
When to visit
Gili Air is technically subject to the same monsoon season as Bali yet its location in the rain shadow of the much larger island of Lombok protects it from the daily lashings of rain that many other parts of Indonesia experience.
Despite this, you’ll still be contending with intense humidity from November to April so consider your season when you head here. Travel here over the New Year’s period and you’ll get to experience a chill beach party vibe where a complete disregard for fireworks safety will propel you into the New Year in a spectacular way.
How to get there
Getting to Gili Air is easy, from the Balinese ports of Serangan or Padang Bai you’ll be able to catch one of a dozen ferries out to the Gili Islands. Blue Water Express is highly recommended for their higher standards of comfort and safety, pre-booking is recommended.
Photography: Tenele Conway
