Blue skies but there’s still a chill in the air! A textile expert explains how we can all dress warmer.
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We all know these days are crisp. But some people seem to weather them better than others.
Is it because they know the secret to warm-weather dressing?
Jill Pettifer is a textiles expert and an award-winning former Design and Technology teacher at Dickson College before she retired last year.
Now she uses her passion and knowledge of fibre, yarn and fabric structures to run small workshops to further educate people on what it is that they are wearing and how it impacts on their comfort and body temperature—not to mention the environment.
“It is a conundrum, that many people are unaware about textiles and materials, as we wear clothes against our bodies all our lives! Agriculture has developed in parallel to food and textile fibre production. Similarities include improving quality and yield through what we now define as science, technology and design.
“However, people know more about the characteristics and source of food they eat rather than the fibres in their textile items. The information, regarding textiles is available, but consumers do rely on claims and advertising by the brands they purchase. Sometimes, this information can be confusing and ambiguous, which includes greenwashing.”
No doubt the question we all want to ask Jill is how do fibres and fabrics affect our heat retention?
Jill loves a scarf and a bright colour. She dresses mainly in wool in winter and is happiest outdoors!
“There are many factors contributing to heat retention, however, the main one is the trapping of air, as it is a poor conductor of heat. A good example is wool, as the fibre, yarn and fabric structures can retain and trap air. Another amazing property of wool is that it can absorb up to 30 per cent of its weight in moisture before feeling wet or cold. Air pockets can also be created by layering of clothes, resulting in more body heat retention.”
According to Jill, wool, which is a natural protein fibre, is your best friend on a cold day. She also suggests a wool or down jacket as a top layer, to keep your core warm.
“Be mindful to keep your feet, ankles and neck covered, also the extremities such as head and hands when outside.”
Her message is layer, layer, layer and to learn about the many other factors to warmth retention such as fibre, yarn and finishing processes of fabrics.
And just so you’re aware, when the weather is hot “one of best fibres is cotton (natural cellulose fibre) in summer as it is a good conductor of heat, therefore, it breathes well, passing your body heat through the fabric to keep you cool, and it also dries quickly.”
For those active types, Jill also recommends a fine worsted woven/knit wool fabric “which can be cool to wear and is great for those stop/go activities where your body heats up and cools down. Wool will keep your body at a constant body temperature.”
Jill is an avid swimmer, walker and bike rider and she doesn’t let Canberra’s sub-zero temps put her off any of these activities.
“My warmest Canberra winter outfits are made from wool, from top to toe! I am more of a casual dresser, wearing for comfort and fit-for-purpose, rather than fashion. When I am outside, I wear more layers and always feel warm, even on my bike early in the morning!”
Jill is always reading her labels when shopping or op-shopping.
“I am more interested in the fibre content, fabric structure, surface design, handle, country of origin and back story. I like fabric and second-hand shops. I am a collector of textiles and upcycle those I have, including clothes I made in the 1970’s!”
But that is not to suggest she is not aware of new fabric trends and technologies.
“I do like the many talented Australian designers and makers, also those utilising Australian resources from fibre to fabric to textile item. There are also technological advances and collaborations, with other countries, that are using Australian wool and cotton.
“I have also worked extensively on applied surface design techniques such as three-dimensional applications, Devore and colour-discharge printing. Many contemporary designers use these techniques in their fashion garments.”
According to Jill, “people should be aware that the Australian cotton industry has improved environmentally and sustainability, reducing the use of pesticides and herbicides by over 90 per cent in last 20 years, which amazes many, and cotton is only grown when there is enough available water (wine grapes use more water than cotton!).”
She is excited by environmental advances, through science and technology, led by new generations, especially more women entering the field.
Of course, it is no surprise that fast fashion upsets Jill and she says greenwashing is rampant and due to sustainability regulations and classifications being compromised through loopholes that many countries are reluctant to close.
“Generally, fast fashion is made from man-made fibres, which are cheap to produce. Man-made synthetic fibres which are derived from oil, are not compostable—an example being polyester. They should never receive a higher sustainability rating than natural cellulose and/or protein fibres, such as cotton and wool, which are 100 per cent compostable!!
There are also so many factors behind fast fashion, some being poor working conditions, quality, safety and disposal. Jill advocates for careful care of fabrics to ensure a long life-span, investing in quality pieces over what is on the runway and repairing and adjusting rather than chucking to landfill.
“Michael Pollen says: ‘Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.’ We could say: ‘Consume textiles, not too many, mostly natural fibres and fit for purpose’.”
And if you’re interested in learning more, she suggests these three websites are a good place to start: www.wool.com, cottonaustralia.com.au and farmers.org.au
