Well, not the man himself, unfortunately, but his much-lauded food empire, Jamie’s Italian. A partnership between Jamie Oliver and his Italian mentor, Chef Gennaro Contaldo, the food is very much what I had come to expect from Jamie’s cookbooks (I…ahem…have six of them) and his television presence.

“Authentic, honest and affordable Italian food made with love and delivered with knowledge and passion is what Jamie’s Italian is about,” said Karen Westfield, Jamie’s Italian Head of Operations. And that’s certainly what the restaurant delivered at yesterday’s media lunch.

On its second day of operations, a small table of food media and bloggers gathered to sample the menu, which Karen described as “exciting antipasti, lovely pastas, gorgeous Italian mains and to-die-for desserts are all made with exceptionally-sourced, fresh and where possible home-made ingredients.”

Well, I had to pike before dessert, but the antipasti and pasta certainly lived up to expectations…but more on that later.

First, the space.  It’s big and it’s buzzy, and the outdoor area is expansive. Designed by London’s Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, in association with Australia’s peckvonhartel, the interior is an eclectic mix of booths, colourful chairs and vintage furniture. There’s a lot of raw timber, some industrial metal elements, and – at the very centre – the piece de resistance…a Phantom of the Opera-esque chandelier. And somehow, it all works.

The open kitchen lets the chefs be part of the action, with a peekaboo window allowing even those in the cosy corner spot (where we were) to see them at work. I love an open kitchen. I find it quite theatrical, because I think some of the best food has an element of ‘performance’… Case in point, Jamie’s antipasti ‘planks’.

When we were seated, there were random tins of Italian tomatoes on our table. Hmm. Some kind of rustic decoration, I wondered. But, when the ‘planks’ made their way to the table, I had an ‘aha!’ moment. The cans act as the pillars for the planks, elevating them closer to the eye, and allowing water glasses and other dishes to sneak underneath.

Antipasti, at any time, is a feast for the senses…so many different colours, textures and flavours. And Jamie’s antipasti was nearly overwhelming in its generosity. The Meat Plank was piled high with San Daniele prosciutto, Wagyu bresaola, finocchio, artisanal mortadella, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino with ‘amazing chilli jam’, curly green chillies, green and gaeta olives and caper berries, and a crunchy salad of shaved root vegetables with chilli, lemon and mint.

The Fish Plank was a haul of cured and crispy fish, beetroot-cured salmon, roasted shellfish, smoked mackerel pâté, mini fritto misto with yuzu mayo, Italian cheese, aged pecorino with crispy “music bread” and chilli jam, pickles, green chillies, green olives and caper berries and more of the crunchy salad.

But there was more. Crispy tomato and mozzarella arancini with pickled red chillies, spicy arrabbiata sauce and parmesan; Swiss brown mushrooms with crispy “music bread” and smoked buffalo mozzarella; plus homemade rosemary focaccia, Italian grissini, crispy “music bread” and ciabatta served with Rylstone extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic.

Oh, and then there was main course. We each chose a dish that appealed: from my Prawn Linguine (juicy pan-fried garlicky prawns served with tomatoes, chilli, rocket and fennel), to Spring Pea and Mint Ravioli, stuffed with ricotta, peas and parmesan, with broad beans, asparagus, green beans, mint, lemon and (purple) heritage potatoes; to Wild Rabbit Taglioni – a slow-cooked rabbit ragù with garlic and herbs, mascarpone and lemon. Something for every palate.

My Prawn Linguine was tasty. The handmade pasta was cooked ‘al dente’, as is tradition, and the sauce had a gentle kick of chilli…excellent for the sinuses at this very hayfvery time of year. My companions also seemed pretty chuffed with their choices.

And wine. Gazing at the wine cabinet next to our table, I saw an impressive selection of Italian wines and Italian varietals from Australian wineries. We tried the Pieropan Soave, a crisp dry white from Italy’s Soave region, which I really enjoyed. I usually go for a big oaky chardonnay, so this was a little different, but pleasant and easy to drink.

Alas, there was no time for dessert. Just something to look forward to on my next visit!

Service? Most of the staff were young, some a little nervous (pity the poor young lady who had to recite what must have seemed like the entire antipasti menu in front of big boss, Karen), but very enthusiastic and willing to please. There were some inconsistencies in how glasses were refilled, but that’s a minor quibble, particularly on Day 2. This is a business that is serious about its training – taking nearly two weeks to educate their 85 staff in everything from Jamie’s philosophy to the house pasta recipe. They coped well with an instant full house.

On that note, there have been a lot of questions about the restaurant’s booking policy. It’s now taking bookings online at www.jamiesitalian.com.au. You can also head to the restaurant without a reservation and the team will aim to seat you as soon as possible. You can enjoy some amazing antipasti and cocktails at the bar while you wait.

the essentials

What: Jamie’s Italian, Canberra
Where: 125 Bunda Street, Civic
When: Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner
Web: www.jamieoliver.com/italian/australia/canberra