First Look: Central Social Club

Posted on 12 May, 2023

What if we told you that a new eatery and bar has opened on City Walk, promising family-friendly all-day dining, a tempting wine list and some of the latest dinner service in Canberra?

Occupying a prime slice of City Walk opposite the iconic merry-go-round, new bar and restaurant Central Social Club has been turning heads since it opened last month—and for good reason.

With a sweeping Art Deco exterior, the venue is reminiscent of Sydney’s inner-city gastropubs, with a long bank of windows allowing patrons to people watch from sweeping bar seating. In warm weather, the windows fold up and away, giving an interrupted view of the city that we suspect might be perfectly paired with a crisp gin and tonic.

The newest venture of the Canberra Labor Club group, the footprint of Central Social Club might be slim, but the interiors pack a punch, with Hamptons-esque blonde wood panelling, a pastel palette and gingham fabric accents.

Inside, a central bar opens onto a long restaurant and café area, with bench seating, segmented dining spaces and a wall of retro frosted glass allowing for private conversation. Power points dot the space, creating a welcome environment for businesspeople catching their breath between meetings.

For Club Manager Jim Webster, who has been with the group for 15 years, it’s an exciting new chapter and a welcome chance for the venue’s exterior to properly match up with the talent inside, praising the “modern and spacious” interiors and singing the praises of architects CTRL Space Australia.

“It makes me feel very proud. Honestly, I’m glad that I’m allowed to be part of it,” he smiles. “I love how it’s turned out.”

Jim says feedback has been nothing but positive, with huge numbers through the doors, especially on days when the windows can be opened along the bar seating. Rest assured, however, that bookings can easily be made to secure a table via the website or phone.

Jim notes that all-day dining is a huge drawcard, with breakfast available from 9 am–11.30 am on weekdays and 10 am–11.30 am on weekends, with lunch and light meals available from 11.30 am until 5 pm and dinner service from then until 9 pm.

The ethos of the Central Social Club’s menu, helmed by 2022 AHA ACT Chef of the Year Sam McCarthy (who Jim describes as incredibly talented, passionate, committed, fun to work with and a great teacher) is all about respecting the needs of members while also pushing boundaries with familiar and new flavours.

“I wanted to lean into the classics, then take it to the next level,” says Sam. “Soon we’ll have specials that focus on seasonal changes and we’ll cycle through a few menus a year.”

For Jim, the standouts on the current menu are the Triple cooked Buffalo-style chicken wings with blue cheese and buffalo sauces, a Cowra lamb shoulder pappardelle pasta with heirloom cherry tomatoes and aged parmesan, and a Coconut vanilla pannacotta served with a tawny reduction, fig and ginger crisp that he refuses to tell me about until it arrives because I need to taste it myself. Spoiler alert: it’s all delicious.

In fact, we’re lucky enough to try all the dishes above, as well as Sam’s favourites of Sweet corn and pea risotto with asparagus, roasted eschalot and aged parmesan (a very generous serving that’s both moreish and warming), a tasty pizza with mixed mushrooms, thyme, fior di late, mozzarella and a truffle oil that’s hand-infused by the Chef and a Salted dulce de leche tart with fresh strawberries and a bitey lemon sorbet.

While the pannacotta is indeed divine in both presentation and taste, it’s the pappardelle that steals my heart, the fresh pasta as good as any across Canberra.

Sitting down with Sam and Jim after eating, it’s clear there’s a buzz in the air, the team high on the success of this bold new venture. Jim tells a story about a patron who was unsure about ordering the pappardelle, telling Jim she was “fussy” about pasta.

“I told her, if you don’t like it, I’ll give you a full refund,” laughs Jim. Needless to say, no refund was needed.