I accidentally spent two weeks in Bangkok and here’s why it’s your ultimate destination for 2023
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The cozzie livs (cost of living crisis) is real. We’re all feeling it.
But with winter’s cool embrace wrapping our city, you might also feel a bit like you want to GTFO to some warmer climes. So, where do you go when your wanderlust outweighs your bank balance? Bangkok.
That’s right—forget what you think you know about Thailand’s vibrant capital. I’m here to tell you that if your impression of Bangers is of Khao San Road, backpackers and The Hangover II, you’re in for a surprise.
Last November I ended up in Bangkok for two weeks alone, by accident. By accident? Yes. Because despite having traveled to Vietnam before, I somehow forgot to get the necessary visa as part of the six-month quarter-life crisis trip I took last year.
So, no Vietnam for me. Instead of flying London > Bangkok > Hoi An, I flew from London to Bangkok and just…stayed. For two whole weeks. By myself. And during those two weeks, a city I had intended as a layover became one of my favourite places out of the 43 cities I visited during my trip.
So, why should you visit Bangkok this year?
It’s affordable + accessible: With cheap flights from Sydney to Bangkok courtesy of Air Asia (via KL) and Scoot (via Singapore) as well as direct flights through Jetstar, it’s easy (and quick) to get there—a mere eight hours.
You’ll feel safe and COVID-safe: When I visited in November 2022, masks were the norm in all enclosed spaces and even on the street, with most people choosing to remove them only before eating. I also felt safe 99% of the time as a woman walking solo around the city, with a strong security and police presence around public transit and shopping areas. A cheap tourist SIM from the airport meant I always had data, so navigating the city was easy and I always felt connected.
It’s welcoming, fun and delicious: Like many destinations, Thailand’s economy relies heavily on tourism so the past few years have been tough. This means everyone is happy to see you, from hotels to cultural institutions to restaurants. However, apart from the popularity of masks, you wouldn’t know COVID touched Bangkok. The city is bustling.
STAY
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Josh Hotel
Located in Ari, a precinct beloved by ex-pats and situated along the pristine BTS sky train line, Josh Hotel is an Instagrammable haven of a boutique hotel.
Perfect for cool kids looking to squeeze every drop out of Bangkok’s elevated nightlife (because the hotel itself has a speakeasy-style live music bar that runs until midnight, making sleeping early a little difficult), make sure to check out the on-site coffee bar, restaurants, pool and bars.
The best part? You can get a cute room for around $70 a night.
IR-On Hotel
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One of my favourite things about Bangkok is its decentralised layout, with oodles of neighbourhoods fighting for the title of coolest new haunt.
Thonglor is one such precinct, with a reputation for art spaces, boutiques, minimalist coffee shops and vibey rooftop bars. IR-ON Hotel, near Thong Lor BTS station (essential for getting around the city), offers functional and chic rooms for super low prices (compared to Australian design hotels).
You won’t get breakfast included in the price (because there’s no cafe or restaurant) but you’ll be right in the heart of the action.
EAT
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Where to start? Not only does Thai cuisine vary starkly between its regions (giving you a plethora of tastes in one country) but in Bangkok, you’ll find phenomenal food from every culture.
Street food is a must, with plenty of food tours waiting to show you a hidden gem or two, and don’t beat yourself up for wanting to stay indoors to escape the heat. Instead of tacky chain restaurants, Bangkok’s premium malls are filled with eateries hand-picked from surrounding suburbs to deliver restaurant tastes to their patrons.
Here’s what you can’t miss, as a start:
- Ongtong: Delicious (and fiercely spicy) Nothern Thai cuisine in a colourful and fun restaurant that’s cheap as the wonton chips they give you. Make sure you try the chicken khao soi, their signature dish. This was my favourite restaurant in all of Bangkok ($)
- Lay Lao: Classic Thai dishes with an elevated twist. The Ari restaurant was my favourite. ($)
- Hok: Dim sum in a cute forest-green tiled restaurant in the middle of Chinatown. ($)
- Pho Bo Vietnamese Bowl: Located in the luxe Siam Paragon mall. Busy but delicious (and very air-conditioned!) ($)
- Jiaozi: Go for the dumplings, stay for the Thai Tea Boba Pudding. ($)
- Landhaus: A German-style bakery nestled in a suburban soi (street) in Ari. Worth the walk to find it for a quintessentially European-style breakfast. ($)
- Choongman Chicken: Craving Korean-style fried chicken? No worries. ($$)
- Fats and Angry: A Wes-Anderson-meets-retro-Americana style diner serving burgers and milkshakes. ($$)
- Joha Korean Restaurant: Elevated Korean food in a chic industrial space. ($$)
- Yum Cha at Centara Grand: A hotel towering over the central business district of Sukhumvit, Centara Grand is perfect for a leisurely lunch of yum cha with views across the city and bottomless iced Chysthanthemum tea. ($$$)
- SALT: Achingly cool Western fusion eatery with killer cocktails. Bookings recommended. ($$$)
RELAX
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As you’d expect, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to relaxing in Bangkok.
Thai massage places are easy to find (I liked NatureThai), as are aesthetics clinics for facials, manicures and pedicures. I got a lash lift from the friendly team at Sunday Organic Salon in Ari but the best discovery of my trip had to be Yunomori Onsen and Spa.
Located in chic Sathorn (with a sister complex in Sukhumvit), Yunomori’s vast complex is a design-lovers dream, blending traditional Japanese aesthetics with Scandinavian minimalism. Divided into male and female onsens, entry is around $40 AUD with no time limit (and Yunomori is open until very late!).
Once inside the achingly chic building, stash your shoes in a locker before heading to the counter to pay and take the lift to your allocated floor. There, you’ll be given a traditional Japanese yukata robe to wear in mixed common areas (like the adorable Happy Rice restaurant) as well as black net underwear for those who don’t want to go totally nude in the onsen (no, you can’t bring your swimsuit).
The women’s onsen that I visited boasts seven baths of a variety of temperatures (from bone-chillingly cold to very, very warm) as well as dry and wet saunas with recommendations as to how to move between them for onsen beginners. Make sure you check out any massage specials they have too as they’re very well priced. The treatment rooms are in a separate building and a staff member will come and fetch you from the onsen at your appointment time. The on-site restaurant Happy Rice (located in a gorgeous bamboo garden) serves delicious Japanese food and there’s even a relaxation lounge for napping. $40 for an entire day of day spa peace? Sold.
Things to note before you book
Smart Traveller‘s current advice for travelers going to Thailand is that they exercise a high degree of caution due to the possibility of civil unrest and terrorist attacks.
You should also be aware of cultural sensitivities and local laws, such as the prohibition of vapes and strict drug laws. There are also specific laws pertaining to health (like being diagnosed with COVID while in Thailand) so make sure to check those out too.
