Pialligo Estate reopens this week – and we got the first look (and taste)

Posted on 2 July, 2024

Pialligo Estate is a place that evokes fond memories for many Canberrans.

So it was music to our ears when news broke last month that the Estate – closed for just over a year – would soon reopen, helmed by Create Catering, known for venues like Olleyville at Shaw Vineyard Estate, the Gundaroo Inn and as the former operator at the Australian War Memorial.

Last month we also brought you news of the Pavillion Restaurant, where hatted chef Stefano Mondonico is taking the reins in the kitchen, joined by Head Chef Aoife Sugrue. Stefano landed his Sydney Morning Herald, Good Food Guide hat in 2023 at Sydney restaurant Gowings and the Pavillion Restaurant’s menu will be inspired by the venue’s country-estate atmosphere.

And now, we can reveal what it looks like.

The good news is that Create Catering has paid tribute to the property’s heritage, keeping the look and feel of the Estate true to its roots. Soaring wooden pavilions still take centre stage, boasting sweeping views across the Parliamentary Triangle with pathways bordered by lavender hedges. The Estate still holds that out-of-town feel with the stately Glasshouse remaining one of Canberra’s most elevated function spaces and seating up to 280 guests (and yes, bookings are now open for large functions).

But Ant Whitehouse, owner of Create Catering, says that’s not all guests can expect in the future, with the wide expanse of grass between the Pavillions and the river-side olive groves currently being landscaped to create a wide space for music festivals and gigs.

Sitting down at what will be the chef’s table experience (complete with golf cart-driven excursions to the kitchen gardens to pick produce for the meal come summer), the HerCanberra team were honoured to be the first guests to experience the new menu.

We started with freshly baked sourdough with lemon myrtle butter served alongside wild creamy mushrooms with soft poached eggs and truffles. In welcome news for those with dietaries, Ant describes the menu as ‘gluten-friendly’ which means most dishes are gluten-free or can be made to be gluten-free.

Two further entrees are served – a seared kangaroo striploin with pepperberry mayonnaise and shaved hazelnut, and a duck consomme with baby carrots.

Head Chef Aiofe Sugrue describes the menu as a nod to Canberra’s enviable location so close to so many amazing producers – especially when it comes to protein – with a focus on meat, although vegetarians and vegans are well catered for too.

Whole quail with roasted celeriac puree, red char and port is our main course, pairing perfectly with a Rose Red City Sangiovese 2018 from Collector Wines.

Sommelier Royston Lau (Inka, Azima, KOTO) has built Pavillion’s wine list to be “local-driven and approachable” and fans of Canberra’s wine region will be happy to see a menu where you can buy a glass of Clonakilla’s Riesling to have alongside your entree or a bottle of the vineyard’s landmark 2016 Shiraz Viogner for a celebration.

Dessert is a Malfroys honey and lavender goat cheese mousse with a mini brioche – a delightfully savoury dessert that comes sprinkled with lavender from the Estate, the first of many ingredients with zero food miles, once the team get established.

With bookings for the Pavillion Restaurant now open, diners can expect Margra lamb from Oberon, Sydney rock oysters from Pambula, Snowy River trout and rare-breed Wollemi duck from the Hunter Valley region. The hearty offering is perfect for winter in Canberra – and for soaking up the location’s iconic views.

You can see the full menu and book at pialligoestate.com.au. Each guest who dines in the opening week will receive a glass of Champagne Jacquart, a grand cru champagne, on the house.

Photography: HerCanberra