First Look: The Denman Kitchen + Wine Bar

Posted on 13 August, 2024

It’s always fascinating to see a new neighbourhood come together – especially when the hospos arrive.

After all, these first suburban cafés, restaurants, pubs and bars have the potential to become an area’s first community hub and maybe, decades later, will be talked about as landmark establishments, beloved by generations of residents.

It’s a privilege that Two Before Ten Group doesn’t take lightly. Over the past decade, Two Before Ten Aranda has become part of the fabric of the suburb, a feat they’re hoping to replicate with The Denman Kitchen + Wine Bar, which opened quietly last month.

“As you can tell from most of our venues, we’ve generally opened in places where there was a need,” explains Two Before Ten Group co-founder Chris Dennis. “Denman is still a half-built suburb, and we wanted to give the community a family-friendly eatery and café that will be serving from 6.30 am in the morning until 9 or 10 pm at night – a hub for the community that’s open seven days a week.”

However, even those familiar with Two Before Ten’s way of doing things will be in for a surprise when it comes to the menu. For The Denman, Chris and his team turned to UK-born chef Robin Rea and Canberra’s own James Miller to craft an inventive menu of nose-to-tail dining that was approachable, sustainable and, most importantly, delicious.

“Rather than just using all the prime cuts, we’re using all the other parts of the animal,” explains Chris. “It’s effectively zero waste.”

For Chris, this approach to food isn’t just in line with Two Before Ten’s core commitment to sustainability, but also pays homage to some of the group’s very first dinner events held at A. Baker many years ago where Chris says chefs would bring in an entire lamb to turn into a multi-course feast. It also offers diners an elevated menu of “not just pub food” alongside some classics.

Picture dishes such as goat rendang curry with glutinous rice and fried cashews, miso red cabbage with sea spiced eggplant and whipped tofu, and house-made gnocchi with wild mushrooms, sage, pecorino, truffle oil and lemon zest served alongside a cheeseburger, crispy southern fried chicken burger, chicken schnitzel and, of course, some ‘fat chips’ served with harissa mayonnaise. There’s even a separate menu for kids with – wait for it – house-made chicken nuggets.

“As a general philosophy, I don’t think food is a privilege. I think everyone should be able to go out and have a feed, even if they’re not filthy rich,” says Chris. “So, we try and price everything accordingly. We want people to feel like they can drop in on the way home from work a few times a week because the food is approachable and affordable.”

Naturally, Two Before Ten’s own coffee blends will be the star of the daytime café offerings, with a wide variety of Canberra District Wine Region drops (Chris says around 42 local wineries will be represented on the list) and spirits on offer for those wanting a tipple or two.

Local is also quite literally the flavour of the day when it comes to beer, with all tap beer brewed especially for Aranda and Denman by The Kingston Brewing Company. On offer will be the Denman Draught, Aranda Pale Ale and possibly the best-named Canberra beer ever, a mid-strength beer called the Lite Rale, among others.

There are specials across the week, including Sunday Family Day where “anyone under 18 eats anything on the menu for half price” and the Monday ‘Pantry Challenge’ where a collection of menu items will be made available for $25 including a drink to “help combat that Monday-itis that is felt so earnestly around Canberra”. Chris also encourages people to follow @denmankitchen on Instagram to stay up to date about upcoming specials and events.

For Chris and the team, it’s about making sure there’s something for everyone, adding that they couldn’t pass up the chance to work with a “community-focused” group like the Snow family, the architects of Denman Prospect.

“Sometimes you walk into a pub and it’s like being in a Western,” laughs Chris. “Everyone turns around because you’re not from around there. But Two Before Ten’s ethos is all about being comfortable – being people’s third place, away from home or work. I want people to feel like they belong.”

Photography: Andrew Ly